1990 Sportrak 4wd drive broken

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when i put it into either 4H or 4L the back wheels are still the only ones that turn, the 4wd light is on on the dash though. i have been told it could either be the free-wheeling hubs or my transfer box.

when i jack one side up and turn the back wheel with it in 4wd the prop shaft turns round but the driveshaft(? - comes from the side of front diff to the front wheel) doesnt turn, i assume this means its the transfer box thats gone as the free-wheeling hubs would let the driveshaft turn but it wouldnt be connected to the wheel. am i right?

has anyone had this fixed before? or know roughly what it costs to get it done? basically is it worth getting it fixed or will i be better selling it to someone who doesnt want an off-roader, and getting another one?

cheers

When you say you jack the bac

When you say you jack the back wheel up and turn it, the prop shaft turns, I am asuming you mean the FRONT prop shaft? Becouse if the front prop is turning but neither of the front drive shafts move you've got a busted front diff.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

yeah front prop shaft turns s

yeah front prop shaft turns sorry.

has anyone repaired this before and knwo what the parts cost, or any idea what it will cost for me to get it repaired at a garage i think its a bit too advanced for me to take on myself.

If it's just a knackered Free

If it's just a knackered Free Wheel Hub, as it sounds it could be. It's not a big job at all to fix/replace.
1) Six small bolts (10mm hex, or ?? small alen key) around the end of the FWH (furthest from the hub proper). Undo these and slid the end of the FWH out of the main body. The FWH needs to be in 'FREE' position befor removal. There is a spring conecting the two parts of this section of FWH together. It is easy to slid back together if this comes appart, but if your carful it will stay together. If the FWH is just seazed this will be the bit that needs freeing up.
(Too replace)
2) Now you will see the end of the driveshaft in the centre of the FWH body. Under the greese there is a cer-clip holding the shaft in the correct place. Thgis needs to be removed.
3) Six bigger bolts (12mm hex or 8mm (I think) alen key) around the base of the FWH, where it joins the hub proper. These need to be undone.
That's it for undoing.
To replace. Reverse above. Just one thing to remember. When placeing the end of the FWH into the end of the main body, it only goes in properly one way. There are three widder splines which only alow the end to go in in 3 positions. Only one of these positions is the correct one.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.