'pinking noise' from YRV Turbo 130


Any one else come across 'pinking' type noise on the YRV when it is started from cold?
The noise only starts when you drive the car from cold and is most noticeable below 2000 rpm - noise disappears when engine is warm. The dealer hasn't cured the problem because they always get the car warm! As its a 250 mile round trip to dealer its a hassle to leave the car overnight. The noise doesn't affect the performance.

The car is still under warranty and is due the 30k service at the end of next week, so it would be good if I can point the dealer in the right direction! He has previously advised me that when the car is hooked up to the computer diagnostics that there is no fault showing. Can anyone help?


Mine makes a sort of ticking noise when cold but it doesnt sound like pinking.
Goes when warm.


All sorts of noises from mine. The variable timing must have something to do with it. Also Still idles perfect when warm but sounds a bit dry around the belts and pulleys. Best place to find info for these engines surely is at Toyota and not Daihatsu. Going to take mine to Toyota for its service. Think it complies with the warranty, they should still use genuine parts. The Daihatsu dealers were useless for anything with my Charade GTti because of its rarety, so expect the same with the YRV!
D Dave.

Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Rattle sound on Idle

My car also got this rattle sound on idle, but it is more clear when it is warm/half warm than cold though. It does sound oil pressure related? So what is causing it? I will check the little filter. If I start after been driven and she isn't cold but not very hot either, it seems to be louder.

1. Tensioner?
2. Lifters?
3. DVVT?

06 YRV Turbo - 138kw(+-180hp) & 256nm @ 1.2 bar
57mm downpipe and freeflow
Unichip - UniQ
CAI with K&N Cone Filter
Boostcooler(50% water/meth)
35mm Tein springs
15" SSW Sting rims
custom bracebar & control arm bar
Audi intercooler
14.8s 1/4mile &

I think i have this also

I think i have this also (sometimes)

These cars seem to have lots of little noises which sometimes come and go, really dont worry about them!


forgot to say the noise started after 20k miles or so, it hasn't got worse by 30k - dealer put injection cleaner in after last service, didn't make any difference!

noise from YRV Turbo when cold

Our YRV Turbo also makes a pinking/rattling noise when cold at 1800-1900 rpm only. I thought it was something wrong specifically with our car, but reading the forum posts it appears to be a common issue.

Once the engine is hot it disappears. I too thought this was pinking, and the dealer said it was just a characteristic of the engine. However in the winter it is really annoying. After doing a lot of research I have come to the conclusion that it is the timing chain tensioner.

The tensioner works by oil pressure and when the oil is cold and thick it does not pressurise the tensioner enough so the chain rattles. When the revs are above 2000rpm the pressure is greater so the noise disappears.

I thought this might be because too thick oil had been used so I have changed it to 5W-30W as the manual states, but no difference.

There is also the possibility that the tensioner and chain has a design fault as this is a problem with the Toyota Yaris which has the same engine as the YRV without the Turbo.

Has anyone actually had this fixed by a garage, if so which bits did they replace?

Yrv noise

Hi All
My YRV had a strange noise fron the engine when cold which got louder in drive or reverse (F speed). I noticed that the auxiliary drive belt was cracking 30k miles 53 reg so I replaced the belt £12.50 from local motor factors and noise gone. The belt was abit tricky to replace need little hands but no special tools spanners etc, and I drew a route map of belt so I knew correct way to fit.
Hope this helps Cheers Marcus

engine rattle

Hi just like to tell you Ive had the same problem on my yrv turbo.I have just replaced the vvi unit and the problem has gone,Just one thing first at the back of the engine at the side of no 1 inlet is a 8mm allen key plug.Remove this to expose a small vvi filter which can block and restrict oil to vvi unit,which can cause rattle due to oil starvation(DO THIS FIRST).It can be cleaned because its a plastic pencil filter and refit.Hope this helps Mick49

Mick H

VVTI filter

Thanks for the tip Mick49, on your cure for the pinking/rattling noise from your yrv turbo.

I have just been out tonight in the cold, to remove and check the VVTI filter as you suggested. It was not clogged at all.

Can you describe where the VVI unit you replaced is? Is it internal (cam pulley) or a bolt on unit(oil control valve)? Do you have a part number and price please?

Can you confirm that your rattle was also below 2000rpm, as that is where mine is. The VVTI system appears to work fine as you can feel it kick in at high revs.

Did you have other problems with the VVTI too and was the engine light on with a fault code?

My money is still on the timing chain/tensioner, but I'll try any easier solutions.

Thanks, I'm sure the forum can resolve this as the dealers can't!!

vvti unit


Mick H

yrv engine rattle

wrote to daihatsu uk, about this DVVT rattle, and they claim no known issues with the DVVT. Maybe not, but odd how replacing it fixed mick's car and there is definitely some design issues with the number of yrv's with the same rattle. This issue and the lack of resolvement probably means the car will have to go. Too expensive to start changing timing chains/dvvt actuators to find a cure.

Cured 'pinking'

Just thought I would share some info. with you guys, I've changed the oil today and used a can of Wynns oil flush (£4.99 from Halfords). Using an oil flush has ended the pinking problem for my car, I've also been using 10W40 semi synthetic oil now that the car is 'middle aged!' (56K miles) instead of the 5W30.

The dealer had been doing the oil changes before and had used an oil flush and the pinking only came back when an oil change was due.

That's good to hear. Been

That's good to hear. Been using 5w30 Fully Synthetic oil on mine and up-to now touch wood not experienced this pinking issue, and hopefully wont in the future. I believe Lucas Oils are a good make to use on the YRV Turbo at 5w30 fully synthetic rating, as I believe this is what we should be using.

'53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo/ '53' Plate Black Subaru Impreza WRX STi PPP

'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Mine has started doing this,

Mine has started doing this, noticed yesterday when engine was cold. Seems to go after only 1 or 2 mins of engine running.

As soon as the temp gauge starts rising the noise has gone.

Just been outside, could not

Just been outside, could not locate the DVVT filter easily , all i could see is what appears to be a knock sensor that is in front of the brake master cylinder.

Anyway. to sum up from my observations...

The noise seems to come from the drivers side, indicating tensioner/pulley/chain etc.

If it is to do with oil thickness and pressure related, then a 0W40 may help as not as thick when cold. (note: a 5w30 and 5w40 oil are the same cold, so waste of time trying that. Only the first number shows the cold thickness, second number the operating thickness)

Although think about it...oil pressure is higher, not lower on a cold engine. So cant really be pressure related, but flow related.

However, to me it does sound load related, ie you can make it do the noise with the throttle, it's not just engine rotation.

One thing not been mentioned, the air/fuel mixture needs to be richer for cold starts, perhaps when its colder and with choke it's a little too lean.
But this you would expect the car to have done it since day 1.

My fix for now, Not worry about it!

Let car idle for 30 secs or so before moving off on a cold start (but not idle for too long), and more importantly take it steady (minimise engine load) for first few mins.

Wise for any engine.

Doesnt take long for the temp gauge to start moving, which is a good thing.

Right , done a bit more

Right , done a bit more online research, someone described the fault on a toyota forum almost exactly the same.

Culprit in this case was replacement of water pump...

Thinking about it, the noise on mine goes as soon as temp gauge starts to rise (thermostat opening),

Before the thermostat opens i reckon the water pump is pumping under more resistance, hence any pump noise would be more likely in this scenario.

But then again, if someone has fitted a new water pump, then the belt has probabaly been replaced or tensioned more.

Anyway, although it sounds like pinking, I cant see that it is. Not on a cold engine.

IMO It's just something rotating with some slight wear, but once it gets some heat in the part the wear gap is closed.


It's interesting you have mentioned the water pump, as this is one of the issues the YRV Turbo has. I was lucky as when I had the Radiator swapped I bought a new water pump to fit as well. The Mechanic told me the original one was showing signs of leaking from around the seals. When I probed further, I was told that this is something Daihatsu know about and it's one of the most issues being fixed on our cars apart from the rear underside anti-roll bar snapping. The most problematic is funnily enough the Brake discs.

'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Maybe its worth using

Maybe its worth using something like Redline waterwetter or a drop of extralube ZX1 that is recommend to lubricate water pumps. Plenty of products out there in fact for water pump lube.

Got some belt lubricant coming in the post anyway as it's handy to have on the shelf. Will give the serpentine a squirt.

re brake discs, I can see why they get comlaints, Daihatsu discs have always been junk quality.

With braking at speed then holding the car on the footbrake whilst at traffic light, its a sure way to get judder. I always shift to neutral and use handbrake , foot off footbrake if it looks anymore than 5-10 seconds of waiting.

Don't like the thought of the gearbox fighting to try and make car move against brake for more than a few seconds, Im sure it reduces life.

My father told me once, Use a auto gearbox to keep it working good., ie shift it to neutral often when stopped, and drive when needed in the lower gear ranges, especially for hills when it maybe wont automatically change down without quite a bit of throttle.

Anyway my brakes feel fine, still original discs and pads. I have heard that overheating type of pad rumble noise after a few brakes at speed. But they felt fine.

Discs looking pretty rusty though in the vented vane area, and the pads are 3/4 worn,

Will be going for some APEC discs for £40 delivered (always have been very decent quality on other cars), National discs are also very good but they dont list the YRV turbo disc, shame. Probably use Apec pads as well, or Ferodo.

Its definately the belt and

Its definately the belt and its tension. New belt on mine and the noise went away. I noticed the original belt is like a fibre composite and not rubber like the Gates brand.
Not done the water pump although a few members have reported theirs to be faulty and a bit of wear would add to the problem. The more you belt tension the more strain on the pump.
Cant remember the exact company or companies ADL maybe but noticed some now have 2 part numbers for the water pump yet they both look the same :?. Adding to this i have 2 pumps here that look the same outside except one has a black painted pulley mount the other bare metal but inside the black one has a plastic impeller the other steel....a mod or just makers differences who knows? Plastic would make alot less noise than metal if it started to scrape the casing.
I put a capfull of ZX1 in the rad, noticed the lovey pink longlife fluid is a bit murky now tho....coincidence maybe?

National do a brake disc but strangely dont list it as YRV or Copen but 1.5 Sirion. Part number NDB1680. Emailed them with an enquiry only recently but as usual NO RESPONSE! Think my Drilled and Grooved discs are Apec and seem quite well finished and not as rough as Daihatsu discs usualy are Smile

Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Was reading up last night,

Was reading up last night, ZX1 appears to be copper corrosive and water pump seals i understand can often contain copper.

But also i hear that on a modern water pump you cannot lubricate anything anyway, the bearing is sealed for life and behind the seal.

I used to use ZX1 in engine and gearbox, but now after the research wont be using it again.


"After more research, I can conclude that the reason its doing this is because a carbon containing haldide is being created on the surface. The manufacturers claim after their "special test" with copper, that its heavier, thus, a magic layer is protecting it, wrong, that layer is copper chloride, ZX-1 will provide most metals with a chloride surface. For things like bearings, rings and bushings, this will irradicate any type of lubrication. "

From a silkolene chemist:

These products consist of a chlorinated paraffin diluted with mineral oil plus a sulphurised fat additive. When added to engine or transmission oils, chlorinated additives cause corrosion and accelerate lubricant degradation. They do not reduce wear, and have no effect on fuel consumption. Provided that a lubricant suited to the application is used, their friction-reducing properties are negligable.

General Remarks on Chlorinated Additives.

A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:-

1) They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.

2) They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)

3) X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.

4) When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.

5) Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made."

Anyway back on topic,

Yes i'd rather live with a tiny bit of cold noise rather than straining things with a over tight belt. The belt lube spray should be here in a few days.
Not had the noise on the car today at all!

Well this is more than a car

Well this is more than a car forum it's now a science Lesson as well Wink

'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP