Sportrak Body Lift


What is the highest the body can be lifted without too much work?

For example, the fuel filler pipe, steering column, radiator etc.

I don't really want to start moving everything.

I would like to fit some slightly larger tyres.

I'm currently making a new tubular front bumper, which will allow clearance for the tyres.

body lift

this should help try
and i wouldn't make your bumper until you've given it a body lift, as it lifts your body away from your bumper and your left with a gap.
have you thought of suspention lift? lot easier and you can get 31s on at a squeeze.



I tryed it and it took me to

I tryed it and it took me to Yahoo 'tying to sell you a holiday' .com

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Without too much work is abou

Without too much work is about 1 inch.

I dont see much point in this though, coz the lift itself is the most work.. may as well go 2".

You still need to alter the radiator fan shroud to clear the blade. And probably alter the transfer case lever...

Suspension lift would be much much easier!

Wind up your torsion bars and fit extended shackles or lifted leaves.

Suspension lift

If I did a supsension lift, I would imagine fitting wheel spacers would help the stability.

You're right about it being easier. After looking at photos of new shackles, I can make them at work easily.

Is the suspension travel still OK after it has been lifted, and is it still stable?

Don't use spacers. Wider whe

Don't use spacers. Wider wheels with a deep dish are cheaper, and will put less strain on the wheel barings.
That said I'd stick to the body lift idea. You end up with the same hight, and a more stable car as the heavy parts are not lifted (chassis, engine, gearbox).
Also messing with suspencion (unless done very well) has it's own potential problems. Knackered geomitary on the front wish bones. Over streased prop shaft uj's/cv's, du to too much angle from transfure box to rear diff or from front diff to front hubs. Un-lubricated nose barings on rear diff, du to tipping 'back' caused by lengthening shackles, and leaving the other end of the spring in the same place. Shock absorbers 'bottoming out' becouse they are no longer in the correct position, or are not long enugh for the new potentual axle travel.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

I think I will stick with the

I think I will stick with the body lift. I only want an extra 2 inches. I'll probably move some of the parts, ie. filter, coil beforehand, and make up the other bits like the fuel hose and gear lever before I start, so I can get it done in one job.

body lift

ive done a 4" body lift with no real problems ,the stearing shaft was ok with no mods,rad was mounted lower as with the coil and fuel filter.filler neck was extended gear lever is just ok and all the wires for the shocks wont reach and you need to remount or renew front bumper,ive also done a spring over axle coversion wouldnt recomend longer shackles,and removed and rewelded the front suspension on lower and removed anti roll bar ,you can get 35s on but no power to turn them iam on 31s and just about to fit a 2.8 td engine in it.theres a picture of it on here its the sportrak with the big bumper on