Clattering noise on start up


I have a 92 (K reg) 1600 Elxi Sportrak with 38,000 miles on the clock. On starting from cold it makes a clattering noise similar to tappet noise, however I've checked those and appears OK. The noise disappears after 10 minutes, does anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing the noise?

Mine does it too, like a dies

Mine does it too, like a diesel, but goes quick enough. Runs sweet as a sweet thing when warm so I don't fret. GENUINE 80k miles on an H plate.

clattering when cold

Some engines in days gone by were prone to clatter until warmed up due to "piston slap". Provided this became quiet when the engine was warm, it was not considered worth spending money on a rebore and new set of pistons. One that was particularly prone was the Ford 100E sidevalve but I do not think anyone reading this forum will remember those! Your noise could be pinking due to over advance when cold. So if your Daihatsu has vacuum pipes operating the distributer advance, Make sure that these do not need replacing ( only costs peanuts )and that the advance mechanism is not seized up.

Tappet rule.

Tappet clatter .... did you use the 'rule of 9' when checking the valves? [or is it the rule of 7 ... I always need to look it up!]

eng rattle

The problem you are having is piston slap,there was a mod for this problem.This was modifiied pistons,but it was only a short term repair.When engine noise starts getting worse change eng oil and filter

Mick H

Clattering noise on start up

Thanks for the responses lads, the distributor suggestion sounds a bit technical I'll have to do a bit of swotting before I tackle that, in the meantime I'll have to turn the radio volume up for the first ten minutes!!
Cheers Mal

Vacuum pipes are not rocket science...

Examine the old rubber vacuum pipes. They are about the diameter of plug leads and black. If they look perished, gooey or have a flattened appearance then they need replacing. If they look ok, pull one off at a time and ensure they are not blocked by blowing.If you leave one end connected to the distributer and suck, you can check the operation of the advance action. A slightly seized action will often free off with a good suck.

Replacing the rubber vacuum pipes is just a case of removing one piece of pipe at a time by pulling off the nozzles, being very careful to note where you pulled it off. Some of the connectors are plastic so take care in case they are fragile. Use the old pipe as a pattern to cut a length of new pipe using scissors. Fit the new pipe then go on to do the next piece. For some unfathomable reason, my Daihatsu Domino ( normal type manual carb)had six pieces of pipe to replace, which cost me only £3 together. Most Halfords or similar will stock vacuum pipe in 1 metre lengths. My spares shop allowed me to take a length to the car to ensure that it was the correct diameter. Good Luck.