Hi
I have two Sportraks one a 1991 J reg which I have had since 1994 and a 1996 which I got dirt cheap last year. The G reg you have will be a normally asperated model witout a CAT rather than the 1.6 injection so you may have wear in the carb which I can' t really comment on as mine are both Injections with Cats. The Cats rattleon both of mine but you will be saved that row.

As a rule these cars are very strong as long as they are looked after and kept free of mud and treated with waxoyl from time to time. Looking at the 1991 which is nearest to yours I have had little if any problems mechanically. The rear springs can sag or break and I have replaced the o/s due to a broken leaf. I have also replaced the rear shocks and the exhaust, cluth and radiator and that is all in 100,000 miles, a number of which were towing cars on transporters or box trailers. I would say it is the best car I have ever owned for cst and reliability.

Rust can be a problem at the rear of the chassis where the spring shackles mount but mine have been fine. Rust also forms on the inner wheel arch. The seal betweem the floor and the inner wings is poor and the seams can rust. I think if Daihatsu had spent another £1 putting a good amount of seam sealer when the car was made this problem would not occur. The other area where mine has failed is around the rear seat belt mount on the rear o/s wheel arch. An easy repair if you can weld but vital for rear passenger safety and the back of your own head. The strengthening plates that have the seat belt captivated nut on seems to caused the sandwiched wheelarce area to corode.

Watch the floor areas at the top of the rear shocks again a strengthening plate causes the same problem. When welding in both areas check the pipework beneath to reduce the risk of burning through fuel or brake pipes and cables. Some find the rear floor pan can rust but I have had no problem, however the rear roof seams onthe 1996 were again done using too little sealant and when I got the car the passenger side rear carpet was drenched. Bathroom sealant cured this once the roof had been removed. Some Sportraks have rust on the outer wheel arch but if these are kept clean beneath they should be OK and perhapsis a good sign of the maintenance that has been done on the car in the past. If your have the Platic arch Extensions then check beneath these for blistering. Clean off the rust traet and then waxoyl the area covered before replacing the arches. Dont use the rusty screws as that will only start the process again. Use stainless nut and bolts with lock washers or nyloc's. The other rust area I know of is the bar between the headlights and bumper which can rust out at either end, mine haven't but I always make a point of cleaning these regular.

The rear axles can whine on the Hypoy gear on overrun but mine has whined for 80,000 miles, just check the oil levels. The 1996 also whines @74,000 miles.

Engine wise check for over heating as head gaskets do go and if you have no idea when the CAM belt was last changed then change it. An afternoon and £18 will save a new engine if it breaks. Batteries go as with all cars and the Sportrak has small terminals which make the repalcements more expensive. I reeplace the terminals on the + and - leads to normal, common size and I have a H/D Mini battery, from Makro @£23, on the old one which has been fine and has a 3 yearwarranty.

Overall they are excellent reliable vehicles but expect some rust on a G reg as it is knocking on a bit and really condition depends on treatment, usage and maintenance. Having said that my J reg has years left in it.

Good luck

OLDMINIMAN