Forum:
Hi all
I recently purchased an 86 Fourtrak 2.8D on ebay, which was allegedly 'tatty round the edges' but running very well. (107 on the clock)I have discovered that tatty = very, very rusty. It's amazing how you can photograph a vehicle to hide 4in holes....
Anyhow.. my conundrum is thus... It has 12 months MOT, and the engine/gearbox is great...but it requires a few hours welding and the odd panel so that I don't lose the rest of it when I hit the first bump.. chassis is sound, but bearings in transfer box are knackered, and 1 CV joint makes horrendous racket on full lock when in 4wd. I paid £770. (duh) Do I a) Replace a few bits, and try to beat the rust, b) Buy a decent shell and swap the engine etc, or c) stick it back on ebay?...
If you reckon (a), has anyone got any donor panels (rear door/wings)or know a cheap supplier.
If you reckon b, can anyone give me some advice as to whether I can swap the engine/g box into any other fourtrak.. or are my options limited?
And If you reckon (c).. do you want a 'tatty' fourtrak with 12 months MOT for £750??!!
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Merry Xmas.
If your after panels this sit
If your after panels this site seems reasonable:
http://www.milneroffroad.com/4trak.htm
Don'y know about the rest yet, I've only had my Fourtrak for a week.
John
I know i'm a newbie and I don
I know i'm a newbie and I dont want to speak out of turn - but I'm going to anyway
The first thing you do is threaten to leave the robbing lying cheating bastid some negative feedback on ebay unless he's willing to sort sommat out.
I know the vehicle you bought as I emailed the guy and was thinking about bidding myself.
The email I got said the body was just a little rusty on panel edges.
A duff CV joint wont always show up on an MOT unless the gaiter is knackered. BUT 4 inch holes should have NOT have appeared in the month since it was MOT'd.
Mention you suspect a hooky MOT to the guy and see what he says - If it was a mate of his who did it he should be more than willing to stop you going to the ministry.
Sorry to rant but I'm in the motor trade and it pi**es me right off when people take advantage.
Cheers
Neil
I had a similar type of exper
I had a similar type of experience with a car on ebay, went to see what looked like an immaculate Suzuki Samurai, which could be supplied with a full MOT, haf of the car had rotted away, speedo didn't work etc... It was lucky that I live quite close to the guy who was selling it. The pics and description were totally wrong, obviously you now know about viewing before you buy, but it's a real shame when people have to lie and rip you off.
Hope you get it sorted
John
cars for sale by the roadside
Yes, its funny how these bargains have 12 month's MOT.
I once looked at a VW polo with 12 month's MOT .... and the inner wings totally adrift from the outer ones next to the top of the Macpherson strut tops
Rotten Fourtrak
Hello there,
I have had my Fourtrak for apr. 7 years, its an 85 model and I have taking it thrue the MOT 3 times here in Denmark. 2 years ago my daughter wrecked it but I rebuilt it from scratch. I plan to put the pictures in the gallery some day. Right now I am moving an turbo engine from an 86 model into it, since I really do not want to get read of it yet.
What I try to say is, if you can weld and you have the spirit and maybe some good friends. You can do it. Buy the mechanical manual from Lurch and get started. If you need any hints, just let me know and I will be glad to help in any way I can.
Best regards,
Per Abildskov,
Denmark.
I had bad cancer in my F75. I
I had bad cancer in my F75. I ended up buying a complete shell from firewall back, and doing a rebuild. I swapped all the interior from my old shell to the new one, then swapped bodies over. Even did a 2 inch body lift in the process.
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow
body cancer!
Hi,is ( bundyrumancoke about ) i'm new to the site and daihatsu's ( but both are excellent ) that is apart from the dredded tin worm! Could you give me the address of the place you bought your body shell,also what did it cost. I'm just wondering which way to go,Body or Welder. I hope that maybe you could point me in the best direction having been there yourself.
Cheers Phil.
Hi Phil, First Im in Austra
Hi Phil,
First Im in Australia, so if your in the UK, price and purchase place is pretty irrelevent, but, here it is anyhow. The shell was bought from 4x4 parts Australia, at Strathpine in Brisbane. It cost me $750. It was bought in the end of January 2002. It took a return trip of about 1200km with car trailer to collect. What I got for my money was body shell from firewall/Baulkhead back, on a chassis, with good rear door, resin roof/sides, and sunroof. The interior was mainly stripped, no seats, the dash had been pulled apart, but was still there. Some ancillary trim was there, carpet, side panels ect. I also got a fuel tank still attached to the chassis. The left front (guard, radiator panel, ect) had been trashed in an accident. There was no rust in the body at all, apart from the rain gutter over the doors, ( a common problem) There were also a couple of minor dings in panels. I stripped the shell bare, did some panel beating on the dings, replaced the guttering with gal panels. The heater unit in the dash had to be removed and replaced with the diesel unit (it was originally a petrol model). I then chose the best panels, doors/bonnet, guards from my existing F75, plus another spare I have, did them up, and fitted them up. Over Easter 2002 weekend, I lifted the old body off the chassis, and rolled it under the new one. 2 inch body lift also incorporated at the same time. Reassembly took another couple of days to complete. I think it drove again on the Wednesday after easter. Overall, it is a realitively easy job to do, you just have to have the willpower to do it. I had no choice. It was what just had to be done.
Cheers
David
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow
body rott
Cheers David, I will see if there is any stolen recoverd fourtraks in the salvage yards, minus engine and box, or something. If not i will just have to be patient and get the mig out.
Ill have to make a song, Theres a whole lotta weldin goin on,goin on.
Thanks David, Phil.
If it's as bad as you say the
If it's as bad as you say then I would suspect the MOT could be dodgy as well. Serious rust and duff CV joints are an instant failure. Maybe you could get your own back
I'll Keep you posted!
Thanks everyone... I shall get the vehicle MOT'd again, because as all of you suspected... his workshop did the MOT. I did call him and challenged him on the MOT pass, but he claimed that because the chassis is ok, and all the suspension, brakes etc are attached to it, the holes in the body are irrelevant...as is the bald spare wheel and inoperative spot lights. He did admit that the Mileage he put on ebay '69038' was "what's on the odometer" and when there's only 5 digits... it is actually 106903.8 It's even written on the MOT as 6903!! I'll be reporting him to ebay for that one if the MOT-rust holds up. Seller was 'greenpathfinder' - Avoid him!
I'll keep you posted. I've ordered the manual.... just in case!
Rust
Take the engine out.
Sell the rest for spares.
Put the engine in a Range Rover.
Mine is like a tank and you can fix it with a hammer and string.
Bits are easy and cheap, providing you fit a good engine, the Diahatsu is ideal.
Dave
www.winchman.com
My sugestion. Find a nice Pe
My sugestion. Find a nice Petrol model. Their usually a fair bit cheeper. Then transplant the Deisel lump. Just bare in mind that the bell housing and primary imput shaft are diffrent between the Petrol & Deisle models. The rest of the box is identical though, and changing the housing and shaft over isn't exactly rocket science either.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.