I have one fitted as well, and yes, they do protude a bit, but, surprisingly, my approach angle isnt hugely affected. Perhaps this has a bit to do with the suspension lift, and the tube front bar instead of the crappy weak as anything standard bar. I have looked at moving it back, and I reckon is could easily be done. It would need the mount holes redrilled to suit the new position, enlarging the hole in the front cross member where the drive shaft goes through (because in the new position, the uni joint will be running in there instead of just plain shaft) and shortening the drive shaft between the front uni and the supporting bush beside the engine. It would be a cut and sleeve job.
One day I will do it, just not the inclination at the moment.

As to fitting them, and how they work.

Fitting is a breeze, remove the odd shaped cover from the back of the transfer case, held on with 6 bolts. Undo the lock nut, and remove the plain spacer. This spacer is replaced with the drive sproket for the PTO drive unit. Replace the lock nut. The PTO Drive unit then bolts on in place of the odd shaped cover. You then fit the winch to the front. You then align the drive shaft in the spline input in th winch, then the keyed output from the PTO drive unit, then lift the centre supporting bush and bracket up and bolt it across the bottom the the bell housing. Then drill a hole in the transmission tunnel to suit the activation cable.

To operate, pull the button at the left front of the winch, at the same time, move the large lever on the left side of the winch outwards. This disconnects the dog clutch, and allows the winch to free spool. Run the cable out. Now pull the button again as you enguage the dog clutch again, moving the cable drum as needed. Now inside the vehicle, move the transfer lever to N, then pull the activation knob upwards (sometimes there is a lockout plate here) and start the motor. Engauge any gear, and let the clutch out. If you are in a forward gear, then the winch will wind in, if you are in reverse, the winch will wind out. The higher the gear, the faster the winch winds in. Personally, I use 1st for deep bogged vehicles, and 2 or 3rd for lightly bogged ones, and 5th for cable recovery after recovery.
In self recovery, you can have the transfer case engauged in 4L and still drive the vehicle as you are winching. I personally only do this in muddy terrain where winching speed and wheel rotation speed are not critically important to each other.
When winching is finished, the ABSOLUTE first thing I do is PUSH that knob back down. If you forget, and drive off with the winch engauged, (Which is entirely possible, especially in the adrenalin charged atmosphere of some recoveries) you will winch the front of the vehicle in on itself.

My suggestion is, find a nice flat slope, with a substantial tree at the top, and have a practise, numerous times. Its better to learn how to use it in a safe, controlled environment where there is no stress involved, rather than try to do it when water is rushing into the cab as your vehicle slowly sinks into the mire. I also rewind my cable back onto the drum neatly using the same tree (in my case its a street sign at the top of the slope) and under tension, as theres nothing more damaging to a cable than to winch in the last 10 metres of cable, and have it pull into underlying layers of cable on the drum. I do this after every trip where the winch has been used.

And finally, use your head when winching. These things are dangerous, even killers, when used improperly. Get the right accessory recovery gear, and preferably, get some training, or at least some assistance from someone who knows what they are doing, and talking about.

Cheers
Bundy

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