Forum:
Right ok, Had the head gasket done, had the cam belt done, bought a brand new battery, had the thermostat done.... now yesterday, after driving for about twenty miles I noticed that as I depress the clutch to change gear... up or down.... the revs go up, only for a second before dropping again????? Then today after an early cold start, during a fifteen minute journey, the engine cut out eleven times.... in fact, every time I applied the breaks at juctions traffic lights etc.... very worrying. I have all but cleared out the bank account getting the above works done and to find that something else is now not right is frustrating.
Could it be something to do with the choke???? I am just guessing, being a girl, I really don't want to concern myself too much with the oily bits and pieces under the bonnet. i know that sounds typical, but all I want to do, is get in, turn the key and drive to my destination. 
Ant advice would be great.
Thanks, jen
Help her out
Come on you Sportrak owners, help her out with some advice.
Speaking personaly, just think all these electronic gizmos fitted to engines are not that good as a vechicles get older, to many thinks to go wrong. Remenber my first Volvo estate with computerised ignition/injection , one looose wire and it dead as a Dodo, AA brought me home as they would not touch it, all it was ,was a loose wire which I fixed my self . Just believe all these electronic gizmos are bad in the long term, as regards the long life of any vechicle. Progress they call it, planned obselence really, to many electronics to go wrong. What was wrong with Carbs and mechanical fuel injection for diesels. So much for progress !!
Sorry folks, got carried away there.( just remember my dads comment when he looked at a new car,many years ago, 'too many things to go wrong,if my car go'es wrong I can up pick a bit from a breakers or the local garage, and they can fix it. with out all this electronic stuff')
Edward (ews) '92 Fourtrak 2.8 TDX
same problems...
Hey I've got exactly the same problems. Started with overheating. Had a leaking cooling hose conneciton and apparently a cracked head. Got that fixed and it ran dead cold. The mechanics didn't put a new thermostat in despite saying they had and charging for it. Yes the LEFT IT OUT. After getting that put in the idling was completely up the wop. Idled normally when cold but about 2000 RPM when hot. So when I took my foot off the accelorator the revs went up to this high idle speed. They fixed (vacuum hose connected wrong or something)that but now when it's cold it idels at about 200 an stalls for a few KMs. once it warms up it's right, but idling a bit high at about 1100 RPM. The auto choke is working - I've watched the butterfly thingy move as the temp rises. I guess (total guess) it might be the slow jet clogged. I have no faith in the mechanic now and even wonder whether the chead really was cracked since it didn't fix the overheating problem. Sigh. Perhaps next week I'll have an answer for what's causing this and it might help you too!!!
Feroza driver since 1993 (1992 model). Still going strong at 230,000 Kms ! Fingers crossed...
Feroza driver since 1993 (1992 model). Still going strong at 230,000 Kms ! Fingers crossed...
Dead As A Dodo
Could be many things, firstly, what model of vehicle is it?
Wiring is the first problem to look at, check all the connectors for security, corrosion, and particularly the earth points as these often corrode and cause malfunctions.
Ignition amplifiers suffer the same problem, corrosion at the mounting points means rust forms under the amplifier and effectively breaks the circuit as they earth through the metal body.
Ignition coils often start ok, then break down as they warm up, they give these symptoms as the vehicle cuts out repeatedly.
Fuel injection models suffer particularly from defective sensors, the main ones are coolant temperature, and flywheel position sensors. Coolant temperature sensors give the wrong resistance and lull the ECU into thinking the engine is hotter or colder than it actually is, they have a default setting which is an average, when cold the engine is rough and lumpy, the ECU tries to compensate by raising the engine revs.
Crankshaft position sensors tell the ECU the position of the engine, a defective sensor will give the wrong engine position and stop the engine.
Sounds like you've bought a dog, good luck with it.
idle speed valve
not sure what model you have jen but i'm thinking this sounds familiar i'd guess with only the info you've given it sounds like your idle speed valve. dropping the revs as you change gear but ok on the first 15mins as the automatic choke is holding the revs up to start with.try if its safe to do so, keeping your revs up not as easy as it sounds especially if your braking but on a straight road after engines up to its norm temp try changing down but keep a little revs on just to see if it still does it.once you've said what model it is we should know more. dont worry if it is that then its just the case of cleaning it out depending what model of course. hope this helps a litte jen cheers bill
RPM ?
At tick over what revs does the clock count?
Have you taken it back to the mechanic and asked him to check .... if it remains faulty then he should volunteer an inspection.
Has he failed to attach a breather pipe? Any freely hanging tubes/pipes etc.
Sounds very much like a
Sounds very much like a problem I had with a Mondeo. Both symptoms you have described. It was just dirt and gunge in the trotel body blocking the ideler valve / bypass tube. The staling would be due to the engine not gettig enough oxygen when the throtel is shut right off, and the reving on it's own would be the times the engine manigment system has predicted a stal and is trying to prevent it.
Just a good clean of the throtel body cured the problem. I had to do this several times over a few monthes, as the problem kept coming back (obviously more crap comming in), but eventualy the problem went away compleatly.
It's possible with all the work you've had done that some rubbish that's been building up over years has been disturbed, and made it's way into the throtel body.
Dead easy to have a look. The throtel body is the short, wide section of tube directly under the air cleaner (or pipe from air cleaner to engine) that conects to the top of the inlet manifold (where fule and air go into the engine. Take the air cleaner (tube from said) off and you should see the top of the throtel body. In the middle of it will be a 'flap' (butterfly) of metal which opens and closes the tube (throtel body) when you move the excelerater up and down.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
OK Forgot to say...
It's a sporty feroza..... Now, the blow pipe thing that was mentioned, when I took it in to the garage, there was a messy length of silvery papery looking pipe attatched by hideous amounts of brown parcel tape to something on the right hand side of all the bits under the bonnet.... if you are looking in from outside of the car...... since bringing it home the pipe thingy has gone. I just presumed that it wasn't needed so the mechanic took it off. Maybe he shouldn't have????
Idle speed, when not threatening to stall is about 100 I don't know if thats good or bad, now when I take my foot off the accellerator and depress the clutch, the revs go up before dropping down, IThis hasn't been happening for long, it has only started since having the work done. It sounds like I am over revving when I am changing gear. I can promise you I am not. I have been driving for nearly twenty years, and although I am a girl, "riding the clutch" is not one of the many bad habits I have picked up.
I will get round to ringing the mechanic again, but I am busy painting all week and won't get a chance till Friday. I just thought I would try on here to see if anyone else had an idea what may be wrong I
I really appreciate all of the replies I have had.... Thanks all,
Kind regards, Jen
RPM.......
Idle speed should be about 800 rpm. At 100rpm it will definately stall, its much too slow! Have you read the rpm correctly?
If you have a digital camera try posting a pic of the area of 'bits under the bonnet'. Your pic can be compared to diagrams in the W/S manual which might give you the solution.
Airflow sensor/Vacuum Leak?
With the rev's doing funny things and the motor stalling, in my experience, has always led to airflow sensor problems. If your truck is fuel injected that is. When the motor sucks in "unmetered" air froma split air intake pipe or something it can cause the ECU to do funny things.
Either that or a possible vacuum leak from a tube bumped off? just make sure everything is connected up.