Clutch swap

Forum: 

One of the local Landie men has bought a 1994 2.8 TD Fourtrak for a song but it needs tidying and a new clutch, which I've been offered the chance of doing. I've done the Sportrak which was straightforward enough but a bit of a maul.
I've had a grub around underneath and it all seems fairly familiar but I was wondering If anyone here has done one and could tell me if there are any nasty surprises to watch out for doing this, I.E if the box is a lot heavier and will need a flat jack?
Also, who does the cheapest full clutch assy for these?

Clutch

Hi Dave,
I have done once on my 1985 Rocky ( fourtrak in UK). The gearbox and transmission is HEAAVY and it take some stringh to put the whole thing back again.
I did it over a Garage grave and used one of these high adj. jacks.
We were two to do it. Otherwise it is straight forward and it is described in the manual from LuRch`s CD. I can mail you the pages, if you give me you mail adress.
I have just done it again on another engine but, this time the engine was on the table and very easy to handle.
Regards,
Per.

If you can ,hire a transfer/g

If you can ,hire a transfer/gearbox jack....if you cant then use strong rope around box assembly threaded up through the shift lever opening into the cab.
You will most assuredly require the help of a friend to do this job m8

The vehicle will also need to be raised to get sufficient clearance to manouvre the gear /transfer assembly once dropped.

Milners offroad do a kit for £95 which I reckon is very reasonable..great service from them to.

http://www.milneroffroad.com/

Thanks for the advice, all...

Thanks for the advice, all...I do like that idea of the rope around the 'box to lower it, that may save getting a jack. Almost had a hernia when lowering the Sporty's box back in the summer.

I shall give the man a price toward the end of the week and see what he says. Is that Milner's price inc. VAT?

Dave with a Sporty

Dave with a Sporty

My advice, DO NOT pull the ge

My advice, DO NOT pull the gearbox/transfer case out from under the vehicle. Pull the entire motor/gearbox/transfer case assembly out through the front, and split them on the floor. It makes life a whole lot easier, to line the input shaft up with the spigot bearing for starters. As stated, the gearbox/transfer case assembly are extremely heavy, both have cast iron cases. On the ground, they are nearly impossible to move by hand alone. Forget about trying to lift it under a vehicle. Another thing to consider is the fact that, even with a gearbox jack, the weight of the transfer case is lobsided, favoring the right hand side, with the offset output housing.
Which ever way you go, good luck.
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

Having done several clutches

Having done several clutches on various Daihat's I'd strongly recomend taking the engine out, and leaving the gearbox in. To aline the pair for rejoining, use a troly jack under the bell housing. Also to make geting the top bellhousing bolts out (and back in)easier, compleatly remove the engine mounts from the engine as well as the chassis, and drop the engine right down onto the front axle.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.