Wheel Bearings

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Does anybody know if a wheel bearing on the front of a '92 Fourtrak failing an MOT through excess play can be adjusted if it exhibits no other signs of wear eg. is not noisy?

Yes it is possible but would

Yes it is possible but would only do it to pass MOT if time is the essence. Both sides should be cleaned, inspected and be repacked with grease when you get the time.
Remove FWH and loosen lock screw on split nut (split nut should be fitted on your model)
Tighten nut to appx. 100 ft/lbs them back nut off 1/6 turn.
Tighten lock screw and replace FWH.

Wheel bearing

So, are these things hard to remove? I haven't tried yet on this type of vehicle but wheel bearings in other wagons have been tough to remove. Also, will I need another seal?

Dead easy. You don't even ha

Dead easy. You don't even have to remove the wheel. Undo 5 (10 mill headed bolts) on end of free wheeling hub. Pull hub end off (this is easier to do if it's set to free, not locked). There is a spring clip around the end of the half shaft. Unclip it. Undo other 5 larger (12 mill heads on older cars, allen keys (6 mill I think)on newer ones) hub nuts. Remove free wheeling hub body. Bend locking flange away from retaining nut. Don't worry if you don't have a socket big enugh to undo this nut, there's plenty of room to use a hammer and punch to drive the nut off. Remove nut and flange. Now you've found the inner nut. Tighten as far as you can, then back off one flat (1/6 of a turn). Replace locking flange, bending to new nut position. Replace outer nut, tightening as far as you can. Bend flange over outer nut. Replace free wheel hub body. Now that spring clip. The shaft will try to hid in the free wheel hub. There is a threded hole in the end of the shaft. Find a bolt that fits, and you can pull it outward whilst you fit the spring clip. Rebolt the free wheeling hub end. You may need to try the end in several places befor the bolt holes line up. Hay presto.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Wheel bearings

Cheers Nev, good instructions, I'll give it a go. Ever thought of publishing a manual, there don't seem to be many about (you've got a F75 to take apart haven't you, just take pics as you do it!).

Manuals

You can buy the Official Daihatsu service manual on CD in PDF format by going tohere and hopefully you'd have it within a couple of days unless Royal Mail play up.
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N-Reg Daihatsu Sportrak Midnight. A-Bar, K&N, 100Watt Spots, Custom S/Steel Wheel Cover, S/Steel Sillbars, more to follow!

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Going to where?

LuRcH, your link is not working, going to 'here' takes you to a broken page!

Try now

Try clicking the link again. Hopefully i've told you the correct link this time and not the one that only I have permission to see Blush

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N-Reg Daihatsu Sportrak Midnight. A-Bar, K&N, 100Watt Spots, Custom S/Steel Wheel Cover, S/Steel Sillbars, more to follow!

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What about the bit where you

What about the bit where you replace knackered wheel bearing ...did you forget to mention that bit Nev ?.. lol
Once first large nut is off there is a second as Nev correctly points out..this has to come off as well...in behind this is the bearing...I had one that refused point blank to come off the shaft..it should really just pull off easily...on mine the bearing had completely collapsed...had to take a mallet to the back of the brake disc to get the ruddy thing off..this off course meant removing the brake caliper as well....once off install new bearing and pack with plenty of grease
Then follow Nev's instructions...good tip Nev with regards to spring clip...it can be a little sod stopping the shaft end hiding in the hub..have a pair of circlip pliers to hand..makes it a lot easier...

Are you apsolutly sure it's t

Are you apsolutly sure it's the wheel baring thats at falt. I've had an MOT faliure for this reason befor, which upon closer inspection turned out to be play in the swivel barings. This is dead easy to sort. Unbolt the swival barings and remove. They should be packed out with metal plates (shimes) of varying thiknesses, remove the apprpriat shims to make the barings tight again. (If there are no shims, someone else beet you too it and you need new barings). Then pump in liberal amounts of grease.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Particulars

Is there a lot of play in the wheel? If you take off the wheel and hub and take out your half shaft you are able to check the wheel nut itself, this may be loose and can be tightened by knocking it round with a hammer and chisel. Sounds like a lot of work but is only a half hour job! I suggest trying this be4 going to a garage as that starts to get costly!