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Hi, everyone changed my pad's on Fourtrak yesterday and now my pedal is going down to the floor was alright before now it's gone no brake, can anyone HELP!!!
Hi, everyone changed my pad's on Fourtrak yesterday and now my pedal is going down to the floor was alright before now it's gone no brake, can anyone HELP!!!
PADS
It is normal for the pedals to hit the floor on the first application. When you replaced the pads you would have pressed the cylinders back into the caliper to allow the new thicker new pads into the caliper. The first one or two applications re settles the caliper cyliders and then normal brake pressure is returned. The brakes will be a bit spongy till bedded in and you shouldn't brake fiercly with them for the first few miles.
If, in order to push the brake cylinders back into the caliper you opened the bleed nipples then there is more than a fair chance that you have allowed air into the system and the brakes will require bleeding. Normally you remove the top of the master cylinder, place adequate absorbant material around it to catch any excess fluid displaced by the cylinders moving back into the calipers. I use the panel welding type moles to gently push the cyliders back using the centre of the cylinder to ensure they go back gently and squarely. These are not like normal moles as the have "L" shaped legs on that allow them to go over objects and then grip.
Always remember to pump brakes when doing the pads or like me many years back you will damage the car as until the calipers have taken up any slack there will be no brakes.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
PADS
quite correct as usual OMM however people tend to forget that on older vchs as you push the pistons in you also push air into the system past the seals due to there age or condition. now on non ABS vchs this is just a pain but on vch which have ABS this can be a nightmare you are pushing fluid the wrong way through the pump.
as a result of this and having done so for many a year (damn that makes me sound old) the only way that i have found that is fool proof is to
1 clamp the flexi pipe with a brake clamp
2 undo bleed nipple and connect either a length of pipe to a jar with fluid in or power bleeder
3 push in piston excessive fluid is pushed into the jar
4 change brakes
5 release clamp, tighten bleed nipple and repressurise the system
6 and bleed and top up if required therefore no fluid has been split on the body nor has fluid been pushed backwards through the abs pump, and yes I did bugger an abs pump many moons ago not doing this
Thanks
Thank you for your reply. Do you know anything about the spring in the hub (front hub) as i changed my passenger wheel bearing and the next day the front axle started banging. i have now stripped both front hubs down and rebuilt so far so good no more banging but my father says the spring is nothing to do with the 4 wheel drive. O and does reversing set the wheels back when put back into 2 wheel drive. Hope to hear off you, once again thanks
spring
the only spring i can find is the compression spring connected to the free wheel clutch subassembly and this should be connected to the follower located before the snap ring on the end of the driveshaft inside the hub body
when you select 4wh/4wl and drive forward the hubs should move from free to locked position when moving from 4wh/4wl to 2wd back upthree meters to move the hubs form locked to free
Top Man
Top Man, Many thanks