F78 Clutch change w/ engine+box removal - Any tips?


My F78 needs a new clutch and I was planning to do it the way suggested by bundyrumandcoke which involved removing the entire engine, gearbox and transfer box in one go. I have access to an engine hoist, but what is the basic procedure and does anyone have any tips for the job?

I know I'll need to remove the radiator and front panel. Do I need to remove the bonnet? Any other major engine components? For the 'boxes is it just a case of the prop shafts and cross member and mounting bracket bolts?

When I get it out what's the best way of supporting the engine, is it ok just lying it on a concrete floor?

Finally is there anything else I should be checking or changing whilst I'm doing this job?

Any tips appreciated.



I'd just take the engin out

I'd just take the engin out myself. If you detach everything that links the engine to the rest of the car (except the bell housing bolts) and lift it off the chassis, then remove the engin mounts from the block you can lower the engin right down onto the front axle. This makes undoing the bell housing bolts a lot eisier. Suport the front of the gear box on a trolly jack. This will stop it from trying to rip itself off it's mounting. Also it will make re-aligning the box and engin eisier come the time.

You can stand the engine on the concreat as long as you lower it VERY gently to the ground. A bit of carpet or wood or such so sofen the ground would be better. Also leave the engin hoist attached when trying to undo / do up the clutch. This will stop you from topeling the engine over.

If you do take the box out too, remember to disconect the speedo drive and wiering for the 4x4 and reversing lights. If its a dash mounted switch operated 4x4 type, that will need unpluging too.

Whilst it's off check for oil leakage fom the crank oil seal, and change if neccesary. Always change the spigot baring in the center of the flywheel and the thrust baring.

Do you have a clutch aligning tool? It is not apsolutly neccesary, but will make your life a LOT eisier come reasembly time.

Puting back in. The hardest thing it ligning the engine and box up at just the right angle to slid the clutch onto the gearbox input shaft. This is wher the trolly jack comes in. It may also take a few atempts to heng the engine from the cran 'just right'. The bell housing bolts should not need to be forced in order to do up tight.

Hope some of that helps?

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.


Why would you take the engine out just to change the clutch? I had to removed my box to inspect it, replace it. Then Removed it to replace the clutch and then replace. Then remove and replace with a new box. All in the last 2/3 months. I see no reason to remove the engine. You can just remove the crossmember supporting the gearbox and the engine and gearbox will drop down at an angle, giving very easy access to the bell housing bolts.

Remove the gearstick rubber from inside the cab. Remove the engine fan plastic surround. Disconnect battery. Remove the skid plate. Remove the props. BEFORE you do the next step be sure to unbolt the rubber support mount on the o/s of the box, or it will come apart. Then remove the gearbox supporting crossmember, its better to put a jack under the box to take the weight and then lower the engine/gbox down slowly till it stops at an angle. Then remove the speedo cable, 2 4ed light wires and the reverse wire. There is also a breather pipe to pull off the box. Remove the starter. Remove the clutch cable. Then take out all the bell housing bolts apart from 2 and get some wood or something ready to support the box. Remove the 2 remaining bolts(there is also 2 12m bolts holding a tin plate on the bottom of the bell housing). It prob won't fall out, you'll have to give it a tug. The thing is VERY heavy, about 70-80kgs I think, so be careful. You can leave it on a concrete floor as long as you don't drop it. Change your clutch and then put the whole lot together again.

If I were you I would change the oil in the gearbox, transfer case and the front and rear axles. On the gearbox, what-ever-you-do DON'T remove the bolt at the top n/s with a aluminium tab on it, this is the pinion for the 5th gear lever.

As far as gearboxes go, this is a very easy one to do.

It's a matter of personal

It's a matter of personal choice really. I would rather take the engine out (not that hard a job), than work under a truck not on a 4 poster ramp when I don't have too. Don't fancy trying to catch that gearbox when it comes out without a proper stand... Sad

Each to his own really. Wink

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Another vote for the engine

Another vote for the engine out route from me. Once the engine is out of the way on the floor, stick the arm of the crane in through the door, put a strap aroung the gear box and up through the hole for the gear lever, take the weight of the gearbox on the crane, undo the cross member and lower it to the floor using the crane.

Of course just to do the clutch you wouldn't need the gear box out.

Engine out, engine out, engine out. It is way easier putting the engine back in from above than the gear box back in from below. Gravity can be your friend ...

What ever you do, don't let the engine sit at too much of an angle on its mounts or you will tear the rubber and they aint cheap.

Regards - Alastair.


The easiest and quickest way is to remove the transfer case and gearbox as one unit, place a trolley jack under them and simply move them rearwards. Replace the clutch and slide the unit forward again.

Thanks all. I was thinking

Thanks all. I was thinking of taking out the engine+box+transfer as one unit and separating the bell housing on the floor. From what I've read by bundyrumandcoke this is the easiest way to undo the bellhousing bolts and get the re-align everything afterwards? Cheers.

got it all out in one,

got it all out in one, changed clutch, spigot, rear oil seal. piece of cake with the right tools and the right advice.

I am SOOOOOO grateful for the contributors on this forum, without this advice I'm sure the job would have been a LOT harder.

Many many thanks to all the contributors to this great forum.