1990 Rocky rear drum brake removal

Forum: 

Trying to remove the rear drum to replace some lug bolts.
Not finding any way to remove the drum, any experience?

A big hammer, and a long

A big hammer, and a long peice of wood / metal box section. You can harrer the drum off from the opposit side of the car.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

There should be 2 threaded

There should be 2 threaded holes in the face of the drum. Get 2 bolts of the appropriate sized bolts and screw them in there, evenly. Tighten them, and the drum should come off. If the threads are buggered, then its the screwdriver/tyre lever route. The problem is exacerbated if your drums have a lip on them. If you know what you are doing, it is possible to slacken off the self adjusters, but it needs 2 screwdrivers through the adjuster hole in the backing plate.

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

I appreciate the input. I

I appreciate the input. I don't really know what I am doing, never seen this kind of setup before. The dustshield on the backside prevents prying or hammering.
Can you be more explicit on instructions for slackening the self adjusters?
Thanks mate

Look at the back of the

Look at the back of the backing plate, there should be an elongated rubber plug, or if its missing, an elongated hole. You need a thin screwdriver, and a middlesized flat one. With the thin one probe through the hole, pushing towards the outside of the drum. You are feeling for some "give", basically you are wanting to push the adjuster plate outwards, away from the ratchet teeth. Once you have pushed it away, it should move about 5-10mm, you have to hold it away, then get the other screwdriver through the same hole, and lever the rachet mechanism in an upwards direction- ie levering the handle end of the screwdriver downwards. Before you start, have a bit of a feel round in there with the medium screwdriver to find the ratchet mechanism. In the middle of the hole, feel for a series of small teeth, this is the ratchet mechanism.

Once you have the drum off, you will see whats actually in there, and it will be easier next time.

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

another way

Get some wd40 and spray around the area of the middle of the drum where you can see the centre of the half shaft sticking out, this is where it normally rusts up, also make sure your handbrake is off or youll never get it off, then get two either large screwdrivers or small tyrer levers and place them behind the drum lip and the edge of the back plate and at oppposite sides prise it off at equal amounts so that the drum is pulling off square, just before you do this though get a club hammer and hit the drum quite hard around the whole of it to loosen any rust/debris but not too hard as to crack the casting, this will shift it off, worked several times for me with various motors, quite ofton it can also be the shoes making it jam on so the drum is tight at pulling off, use plenty of wd40 or brake cleaner aerosol, its the rust thats a pig

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

www.bloodredoffroad.com
www.milneroffroad.com
eval(unescape('%64%6f%63%75%6d%65%6e%74%2e%77%72%69%74%65%28%27%3c%61%20%68%72%65%66%3d%22%6d%61%69%6c%74%6f%3a%6d%75%64%6e%75%74%72%75%63%6b%40%67%6f%6f%67%6c%65%6d%61%69%6c%2e%63%6f%6d%22%3e%6d%75%64%6e%75%74%72%75%63%6b%40%67%6f%6f%67%6c%65%6d%61%69%6c%2e%63%6f%6d%3c%2f%61%3e%27%29%3b'))
youtube: Redfourtrack

Slacken the handbrake.

Drums often get held because a ridge gets worn into the drum by the brake shoes. The brakes are self adjusting so the ridge stops the drum pulling away from the hub. The ridge inside the brake drum jambs onto the shoes when pulling the drums.
Fully slacken the handbrake cable. This slackens the self-adjustment mechanism and the brake shoes run will clear from the brake drum. The drums should now come off.

PS .. hammering the drums will probably distort them. Use a three-jaw puller rather than smash the drums!

you cant slacken

You cant slacken the shoes of very easily through the little gap at the back because the star adjuster is pointed one way for tightening only and by the sounds of it probably rusted up or knackered on the self adjuster (which never works properly anyway lol)

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

www.bloodredoffroad.com
www.milneroffroad.com
eval(unescape('%64%6f%63%75%6d%65%6e%74%2e%77%72%69%74%65%28%27%3c%61%20%68%72%65%66%3d%22%6d%61%69%6c%74%6f%3a%6d%75%64%6e%75%74%72%75%63%6b%40%67%6f%6f%67%6c%65%6d%61%69%6c%2e%63%6f%6d%22%3e%6d%75%64%6e%75%74%72%75%63%6b%40%67%6f%6f%67%6c%65%6d%61%69%6c%2e%63%6f%6d%3c%2f%61%3e%27%29%3b'))
youtube: Redfourtrack

Sportrak drums also have the

Sportrak drums also have the threaded holes in them, they take I think M12 bolts, and it worked a treat as I found out this evening.
cheers

Rob

cheers

Rob