Intermittent headlights.

Submitted by rf man on

Forum: 

So you turn the headlights on, one comes up, and then, a few seconds later the other one lights.

Next time you try, you find main beam has gone down on the other one, but only for a while.

The solution on a 97 'trak with 140000 on the clock .... the poxy jap connectors to the back of the headlamp bulbs have melted. Replaced by a pair of Joe Lucas connectors from the wiring loom of, I think, a Morris 1100 .... result sanity.

BTW, if you start using high wattage, say 130/90 watt headlamp bulbs, you will really cook the connectors and wiring which IMHO is marginal for 60/55 W.

Also, can you still get those hi watt bulbs, or has our poxy nanny state got anally retentive about that too Unknw

The legal limit in the UK is

Submitted by Stalin1878 on

The legal limit in the UK is is 55w for dipped beam and 60w for main beam. Its a offence to have anything more powerful fitted. Also, the wiring/relays/actual headlamp unit is not designed to take the extra amps/heat from anything above 55/60. The wires will act as resistors and probably melt/catch fire. The headlamp unit may melt from the extra heat the bulb produces. I know someone who fitted 90/100 watt bulbs and his wiring melted and sorted out on the chassis.

You can still get the high wattage bulbs from Ebay, they are sold under "Off road only". I don't think I agree with your nanny state comment, how annoying and dangerous is it when someone forgets to dip there main beam when they are coming towards you are behind you at night? imagine that with 90/130 or w.e bulbs.

Hi Wattage

Submitted by ews on

'92 Fourtrak 2.8TDX

Hi.

I use these hi- wattage bulbs, (80/100) have done for years, even in my Volvo 265. The original headlight units with the internal shroud and the 55/60watt bulbs are appalling, with the hi-wattage, things are better, fit the replacement headlights from Milners which do not have the internal shroud with hi -wattage bulbs and you will see such a vast improvment. Any good motor factors or garages involved with motor sport can supply these, as my local Japanese 'go faster' workshop/spares asked "just how high do you want to go" when I got a replacement bulb. I was informed that the way to, with hi- wattage bulbs was to re wire the headlights with H/D relays in the original circuit and uprated wiring to the headlights.

So far never had any problems with MOT or wiring problems. Though I have never fitted the sealing cap to rear of headlight/bulb connector, this was an idea I had, to allow extra heat generated by the bulb to escape, no sign of heat damage to light units/reflectors either. Make sure they are alligned correctly, and do not drive to close to the car in front,if I find that I am lighting up his number plate I pull back.

Edward (ews) '92 Fourtrak 2.8 TDX

Have used 90/130's in the

Submitted by Nev. K on

Have used 90/130's in the past. They are illegal (though I thought it was 100watts as the limit). They are much better than fittings spots for egsample, as you get more dip light as well. I did melt the wiering on an Indipendent 4trak, but fitted relays after this. No more problem. Now I use red over blue zeeon gas charged 55/60's. These are fairly expensive (even from e-bay), but they give a very eisy light to drive by. They seem to penetrat the darkness better then normal white light, without the glare. And best of all you can use them as normal in fog. They cut through it quite well, without any of the glair back you get from normal bulbs. Not sur they are legal, but has passed MOT more than once.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.

Lack of Power

Submitted by assassin on

This appears to be a lack of current reaching the lights, and the most obvious solution is to check the lighting loom earth connection.

Connect a wire directly from the battery earth terminal to the lighting earth wire as close to the lights as possible, if it is an earth problem the lights will work correctly.

It may be a feed problem, check all the wiring from the headlight relay to the lights, connect a new temporary wire to the headlight to confirm. Then work back through the connections in turn for damaged connectors.

If neither of these finds the problem then it is most lokely the headlight relay, check its earth connection first, and fit a temporary earth connection to confirm.

In such circumstances i have often found the problem to be a combination of age related problems, so inevitably just rewire with new heavier duty cable. I also fit additional earth connections between the lights and the vehicle body, and the battery and body also. This gives the opportunity to replace many of the existing connectors with heavier duty examples.

Check out "Vehicle Wiring Products" website, they supply all wiring products for vehicles at competitive prices, and their wide range means the correct wire colours can be retained.