92 2.8TD WONT START WHEN COLD, HELP PLEASE!

Submitted by flygrip on

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HI, GUYS. MY 2.8TD FOURTRAK WONT START WHEN COLD. THE GLOW PLUGS ARE NEW AND I HAVE BY PASSED THE CIRCUIT BOARD. SO NOW THEY ARE 12V, CONTROLLED BY A BUTTON ON THE DASH AND USE MY BRAIN AS A TIMER. BUT IT STILL WONT START WHEN COLD!!!

I HAVE TO CRANK AT LEAST 30SEC BY STARTER MOTOR EVERY MORNING. THE GLOW PLUGS IS WORKING AND HAS BEEN TESTED(TEMPERATURE IS OK, ETC).

I HAVE OPENED THE FUEL PIPE AND FUEL IS COMING TO THE INJECTORS.

IT RUNS PERFECT WHEN THE ENGINE IS WARM. BUT BLACK SMOKES A LOT. VERY EASY TO START WHEN IT IS WARM.

SOMEONE HAS SUGGESTED THE SEAL IN THE PUMP, COULD THIS BE THE PROBLEM AND LETTING AIR IN?

ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

sounds like a diesal air issue to me

Submitted by If theres mud i... on

sometimes left for long periods of time if a slight air weep enters an injection system it allows fuel to run back, so you have to crank alot to get fuel build up, first thing next morning undo an injector pipe and crank engine- no fuel no bang bang.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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Thanks for all your replies.

Submitted by flygrip on

Thanks for all your replies.

1. The glow plugs has been converted to run on 12v. I had some custom 12v glow plugs made for me. Same dimension as old ones.

2. I already tried to open all injector pipes prior to starting. I open all pipes half a turn then start cranking, first 5 secs theres no fuel come through, then fuel come out as normal. After that, I tighten all pipes and press and hold the glow plugs button for 15sec, then start cranking, the bl==dy engine still wont start!

Someone mentioned about the valve clearance been too tight, I am going to check tomorrow. Does anyone know the recommended gap?

The glow plugs are either 7

Submitted by assassin on

The glow plugs are either 7 or 7.5 volts so it is most likely you have damaged them through overvolting them.

Right, more useful

Submitted by assassin on

Right, more useful information.

Before starting prime the fuel system as you would do when you change the fuel filter, if nothing is there it is the return valve. These stick and allow the fuel to return back to tank, this syphons the fuel from the filter.

If it starts fine after priming you have found the problem, but you will also need to check the fuel lines for air leaks. These will also allow the fuel to return to tank over time, such as overnight.

The solution is very simple, replace the fuel filter head which the filter screws onto.

This condition is usually caused by debris in the tank, or the return spring becoming weak, so i always advise draining the tank and cleaning.

One other thing to check is the water level in the filter, drain it off as if it gets too high and the warning bulb has blown, you will be sucking water.

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR

Submitted by flygrip on

THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR INPUT.

I ALSO TRIED PRIMING IT BEFORE START. AS I HAVE HEARD THE FUEL PIPE IS A COMMON FAILURE. THE HAND PRIME PUMP IS HARD AND I OPENED A SCREW TO BLEED IT, ONLY DIESEL COMES OUT, NO AIR.

BUT THE PROBLEM IS AFTER I BLEED THE SYSTEM, I.E. DIESEL COMING FROM THE INJECTOR PIPE. IT STILL TAKE AGES (30SECS) OF CRANKING TO START.