clunks and bangs sorted....now that gearbox nut please ?!

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well posters,....i have at the moment a clunk and bang free fourtrak thanks to the help of this forum !

main noise was from the rear hanger plate bar being cut thru , and being botched with the shocker being held on by a bolt ! ...fixed that !

front dinging noises were where i had replaced front springs, and the ubolt nuts needed tightening.

Luckily wasnt the uj's , but will be keeping an eye on that bit of play in the prop.

WHAT I NEED TO KNOW NOW IS......
what does the gearbox look like Unknw (i mean inside ), does anyone have an exploded view of what to undo and drop down, showing exactly where this dreaded mainshaft nut is Unknw could someone email it to me please Unknw

How do i give any kind posters my e-mail addy ....securely Unknw

Also discovered that the four wheel drive is defo not working,....nothing from the front prop onwards. How do i trace the problem eliminating easiest first....and where do i find it all ( same as above with pics ?? if poss )
oh....and it has manual free wheel hubs which i did lock up b4 i tried 4x4 ( incase you were wondering !)

cheers oh cheers in advance !

Ps
( i would be bloody lost without this forum !!)

the nut

think the nut is actually on the outside of gearbox. if you read through the forums im sure ive seen one telling exactly how to do it fairly recent as well hope this helps, regards mark

Nope, sorry Mark, thats incor

Nope, sorry Mark, thats incorrect.

There are 2 nuts to worry about on the Fourtrak(Rocky) gearbox. The one you are referring to is the CORRECT oil filler nut. This nut is on the right hand side of the gearbox, about halfway between the rear of the bellhousing, and the lower gearbox mount, and about 3 inches up from the bottom. This is THE filler nut. DO NOT REMOVE the similar looking nut on the left hand side of the gearbox, which should have an aluminium locking washer under it. If you do, then you will have no reverse gear, and the only way of getting it back is top strip the gearbox.

The one Fourtrakvirgin is looking for is internal.

Look under the vehicle at the gearbox/transfer case assembly. Between then, there is a cast iron spacer, about 6 inches long. What you have to do is undo the 8 or so bolts (some short, some long) to allow the transfer case to be removed, WITH THIS SPACER ATTACHED. This will expose the fifth gearing and the dreaded nut. The nut is up the top, about 24mm, and is inside a toothed drive gear. If it is loose, it will be obvious.

As for sending a message to someone else securly, If you click on the name of who you want to send it to, like my name at the top of this post, it will link you to that persons profile. From there, you can send a PM.

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE

Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
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Gearbox nut

My husband attempted to do this nut on my 89 2.8td. He removed the propshafts that were in the way but there were also lots of wires in that area as well which we were worried about. He then tried to undo the bolts you mentioned but said it was impossible to get your hands in there to undo them & would be even harder to get them back in especially when the transfer case is so heavy.Also the problem is that there is no room to move under the vehicle. we dont have ramps big enough & we dont think our standard axel stands will take the weight of the fourtak so he was scrabbling around on the floor In the end he gave up. Please can you help!!!with more advice as i am desperate to get my gears fixed as there are very clunky indeed.
Thanks

Personally, after having the

Personally, after having the motor/gearbox/transfer case out of mine innumerable times, I have come to the conclusion that if any work needs to be done on these, its better to pull the whole lot out as one unit, and split them on the floor.
It may seem a bit much, but the motor weighs 260kg, gearbox 60kg, and transfer case about 30kg, its a bit too much to try and get them out from under the vehicle. I have done it, buts a bloody tough job. If you are going to try it, you have to pull the transfer case out as one unit. If you dont, it comes apart in a hundred pieces or so, and is a real jigsaw to get back together.
Try lowering the back of the gearbox/transfer case. Undo the nuts on the engine mounts, put a jack under the rear of the transfer case, remove the gearbox crossmember, then shift the jack to that mount point, and lower it down a bit. This should give you the room to get to those bolts. You may also have to go through the hole in the floor to get to the top ones.
The wiring harnesses should unclip easily. Just label each one, with a coloured tag, or written label to identify them to make it easier to get them back correctly.

Have fun.
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE

Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

Gearbox nut & fog light

Thanks a lot for that. I will persuade him to have another go. I have another question for you. The fog light on the back has had the wires cut so we need to rewire it. Any idea where to find a live wire to do this? He hasnt been able to find one so far.

Ahh well, 4trakgal. This is s

Ahh well, 4trakgal. This is something I cant help you with. See, the F75's in Australia dont have rear fog lights. Thats why, on some of my posts, you may see me refer to them as (Fourtrak/Rocky) However, with a couple of answers from you, I may be able to help. Is the fog light you refer to the high intensity red rear lights, or a rear facing white light. Does it come on automatically in conjunction with another light, or is it independantly switched, which the driver can activate at will? If the latter is the case, then you should be able to take a power feed from somewhere, even directly off the battery, then through a relay (if the light can only be on when ignition is on) then a switch, to the light.
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE

Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow

Fog light

Its a red light that has a switch on the dashboard right next to the 4x4 switch.

Ok, fairly easy. I would rewi

Ok, fairly easy. I would rewire it so that power comes from the battery, through the switch, to the light, then earthed back to the vehicle. This way, you can turn it on at any time. If you only want it to come on when your engine is running, pass it through a relay before the switch, that is activated when the ignition is on. Alternatively, hook this relay up to your lights, if you only want this light to come on when your lights are on.
I have a similar system set up for a set of spotlights as reversing lights. They power off the battery, through a relay that is switched through the original reversing lights, then to the rearward facing spotlights.
Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt, and
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE

Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw

Growing old is compulsary, growing up isnt.
MUD MAKES EXCELLENT TOOTHPASTE.
I use billion dollar satellites, to find Tupperware.
Please visit http://groups.msn.com/AussieDaihatsuRocky/_whatsnew.msnw
All views and advice offered are my own, from my ow