Hi

Well, welcome to a great forum and welcome to the world of Sportraks, great Motors

The 1992 injection model has a few safty sensors that if you flood the car will prevent damage to the cat by making it impossible to start. Not too keen on the orange light coming on and the excessive use of fuel, could be a metering unit fault in the injection system. The orange light is indicating a fault intermitently I did a forum topic on diagnostic testing the other week from the manual which may interest you. It could be a faulty sensor that is causing both problems or it could indicate an immenent breakdown, so don't ignore it.

If the injection system is ok then I would check the ignition system, the coil is on the right of the bulkhead and do fail with the results you describe to the letter. Don't go to Halfords or Daihatsu, try Partco for a replacement or your local motor parts shop. You can replace them with a normal coil to test them but keep the LT wire connector for future use. If you have an old coil and put that on and the problem is cured then source a new one.

I have to admit to favouring the injection system as haveing the fault and I'm sure another forum memebr will be able to offer more detailed advice on this.

Clutch, parts are about £87 and available from Milner off Road or maybe Partco or Ebay. A Surprisingly small clutch and as long as you take your time and use a trolly jack is eaier than most car because of good ground clearance. The thrust bearing is oddly attached and can look a bit flimsy when on so watch how the old one comes off carefully and place the new one on the same. I was worried about mine as it look attached "JUST" but 60k miles on & it's still there so it must be ok. Mark both prop flanges so they go back the same and getting the bell housing bolts all out can be a bit knuckle skinner. Make sure you support the engine as the rear crossmemeber has to be dropped off to drop the box out with the transfer box attached. It is a heavy lump but not excessively. A job that you may want to do in stages rather than one hit, depending how competent you are and how strong yer arms are.

Electric windows are all accesible and removable via bolts , no seperating of glass but wedge the glass up about 4-6 inches from down and you will be able to get to the two bolts that secure it to the lower window. The loom un- plugs and then with a further 5 - 6 bolts removed the lot comes out. Firstly remove the three large screws at the bottom of the arm rest. The arm rest remains in place on the card as it is screwed at the top from the other side of the card. Then the smal screw on the door opener which will allow the surround to come off. Then gently pull the edges of the card to unpop the retaining poppers. The card will then be held by the wiring to the window switch, unplug that and put the card aside. All the bolts are behinf the ply water cover so again remove that from the top untill you can get acess to yhe bolts and the two lare hole in the inner door skin. You will see the motor and the operating mechanism, remove the bols having wedged the window and take to the bench for testing or motor replacement. The motor is secured to the mechanism by 3 screw bolts. Replacement is just the reverse.

Motors for these are usually available from this forum, ebay or a breakers at a reasonable cost. I believe they are cranked so you need the correct one for the side you are repairing.

Goodluck

OLDMINIMAN