Forum:
Yet another fault has developed on one of my sportraks !!!
Its started to get noisy since I towed another sportrak for about 50 miles, the new noise only occurs when the vehicle is under load I.E. if I press the clutch pedal or coast in neutral the noise stops. It kind of sounds like a high pitched "vrrr" or a milk float when accelerating, and a rubbing / chafing "wah-wah-wah" sound when I take my foot off the accelerator with it still in gear. I have checked the diff oil, transfer oil, gearbox oil.
after reading other post's I hope its a simple job like the universal joint on the rear prop shaft, I did grease it today but never thought to inspect it till I looked on here... or although it shows no sign of wear, maybe its time for the clutch to be done (76k miles) aparently they only last 75-80k.
I'm realy hoping its not something more major.
If you have any other ideas please let me know.
Clutching at straws
Come across this one before, several times, on a variety of vehicles, the noise you describe could be one of the following:
Worn thrust bearing, or the thrust bearing just starting to wear.
Contamination of the clutch by a small oil leak on the engine, or gearbox, dirt is attracted to the clutch and it is this which only makes the noise when the clutch is working hotter than normal.
Wear in the rear axle bearings.
Silly one this? check the oil seals on the propshafts, if they deteriorate, or split, they rub on the prop shaft, and make a horrible noise, and smell terrible, had this once and it took me three weeks to find it.
Check the universal joints, often debris such as small stones will wedge inside the joint, and make this noise.
whining
Hmm i would look at prop shaft first, park on flat ground, handbrake on in neutral grab the shaft and turn it hard both ways, if you can move it alot then you should be able to see the cups in the uj's wiggle alot and this will probably be your problem worn ujs. Next i would check your rear wheel bearings for movement, they make quite a din when worn and speed etc affects that noise, check brakes etc aswell, cant think of anything else really that would make that noise, hope this helps!
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
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Narrowing it down
Well been underneath again today.
cleaned and checked the diff end prop shaft UJ's and re-greased- they look fine, no play or cracks.
took off the transfer bash plate, cleaned the Uj's inspected and re greased.
noticed a bit of oil coming from the transfer to propshaft collar, so cleaned it away and will monitor it over the next few days. (put plate back)
jacked up rear wheels 1 at a time and checked bearing as described in section MA19 of service manual - no play in either wheel. when the near side wheel was spun in neutral handbrake off, thought I could hear a faint noise similar to the offending noise but it was too noisy to isolate it as I live next to a main road. I'll get out there again later when the rain stops and have a listen with a home made stethascope (piece of broom handle).
Would I be right in thinkin that if I removed the propshaft from the transfer box and ran through the gears that would eliminate the gear box? or does it need some resistance?
www.centraloffroadclub.co.uk for free fun offroading in the midlands
WHINING NOISE
Strange that this sound should come after you towing something heavy.
It could be the thrust bearing as suggested and if you rest you fot gently on the pedal you should hear it quite clearly if it is worn. You may have burnt the plate and caused it to glaze which will gradually ease of as the glaze is removed.
To test the cluth select a very quiet road and drive at say 20mph. Without moving you foot off or further down on the throttle dip the cluth and relaese it. If it drags back in then it is slipiing, An altrnative is to place the brakes on and try an pull away, if the car stalls then the clutch is usually ok, if it continues to rev then the clutch is shot. Obviously if whilst going up hill you floor the accelerator and the rev counter shoots up without an equivalent increase in speed then the clutch is the problem.
So thats 3 different ways of testing the clutch and I tend to favour the first method.
Clutch kit from Milner were in the region of £80+ but there was a new one complete on ebay for £26 (item 220138758444)
when I last looked.
All the other suggestions made are valid but because this noise followed your towing exercise I suspect the clutch may be at fault.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
sportrak whining and rubbing
clutch or should i say clutch related in all possibilities you will have to remove the gearbox
the whine is the thrust bearing giving up the rubbing or chaffing noise is possibly a bent or damaged pressure plate spring not disengaging from the clutch plate possibly caused by the thrust bearing having come adrift or its retaining spring having broken as you hear neither noise in neutral
anyway for what its worth that’s my two cents
Clutch
Did the tests on the clutch as described and it seems fine.
In fact its still quite strong, I took the sporty offroading and it had no problems (from the clutch) climbs steep hills no problem.
I have most of the service history for the truck and cant find any paperwork for a clutch so if the life is 80k then I wont rule out a failed thrust bearing or spring.
I'm tempted to just let it develop (although it doesn't seem be getting any worse), And I have some time off in a few weeks so may change the clutch as a matter of course.
www.centraloffroadclub.co.uk for free fun offroading in the midlands
I think its the rear diff
Decided I cant live with the noise and I had a few spare hours today so set to try and investigate the whining a bit more.
put in 4H and locked the hubs, took the rear prop shaft off and took it for a quick spin round the block in front wheel drive. with a little trail of oil behind me went through all gears.
It was silent............
that means its not... clutch, input shaft bearing,gearbox or transfer. (right?)
Swaped the propshaft for a spare I have on a donor car. topped up the transfer oil took for a spin and got the same old noises. so not the UJ's either.
Which leads me to the diff.
Would any additives like molly slip or slick 50 and fresh oil make any difference? or, am i going to have to swap or repair the diff?
www.centraloffroadclub.co.uk for free fun offroading in the midlands
Noises from rear diff
The sporty Rear Diff can whine and if it were just this then you can try tightening the Nut on the diff but you will find it bloody tight. (Drop rear of prop to locate( I have lived with a whine on overrun for 80K miles and it has never got any worse or better and the diff never needs topping up .
You could replace the oil to ensure the correct SAE has been put in and then try it. Molyslip won't harm it but may not cure it.
I assume no oil is being emitted from the half shaft seals, rear break end?
The rubbing sound is the odd one and I assume that went when you drove with the prop off. If it didnt it can be a number of things from rubbing brake pads to a dodgy tyre, either with a wall bulge or a tread bulge.
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young