Hijet 993 EFI. Taking off and replacing CYLINDER HEAD. Any ideas?

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Hi all.

After a lot of trial and error, we have finally found the main problem with our Hijet MPV (Van).

We replaced the pressure cap on the "Engine side" pipe as someone had replaced it with the wrong cap, which meant that as soon a there was any pressure in the cooling system, the water went out into the reserve bottle, filled it and poured out the overflow. A £20.00 cap from the main dealer, to be sure it was the right one, fixed that.

The engine still got a bit hot, and seemed to lose water.
We decided to take the thermostat out. On going to undo the nuts, it was found that one (The "inside", hardest-to-get-at.) was loose. So probably leaking.
We replaced the gasket, and left the thermostat out. Alex tested it (but we haven't got a thermometer!) and it sort of opened in hot water. Decided to get a new one (From a motor factor, not main dealer!)
Engine was running cold without the thermostat, so we fitted the new one, with a new gasket too.

The engine ran fine for a couple of days, and then got hot again. Low water. Refilled the water.(Yep, primed the thing with the heater bung off, etc.) Then next morning it was hard to start, seems like water in the cylinders...so must be the head gasket, and possibly a warped head.

Now off the road, waiting for parts and information...

SO. Has anyone got the information we need to take the head off (and get it skimmed), and replace the gasket and refurbished head. Also need information on the timing of the engine, and anything else that may crop up.

Of course, ideally we'd purchase the CB42 Hijet workshop manual, if we could find one! (Only found the Diesel Manual so far.)

We would love it if someone could supply copies of the revelent pages...

Regards

Sarah and Alex.

Head removal on a 993 Hijet

Littlevanman
This task is fiddly but not difficult
1/ Remove the seats and the hand brake structure (if yu feel courageous you can disconnect the hand brake cables)
2 Disconnect the handbrake elecrical switch (mark the wires so you can put them back)
At this point take pictures of the pipe locatios and wiring positions, these will be your references to reasemble your engine.
3/ drain the coolant and remove the large pipes.
4/ Remove the alternator
5/ Disconnect the injector rail and remove (you will need to take off all of the small rubber pipes to do this)
6/ On the other side of the engine, disconnect the exhaust manifold(only accessable from underneath)
7 remove the plug leads, plugs and rocker box cover
8 Remove the timing belt cover.
9 Mark the timing belt and camshaft wheel to ensure correct replacement.
10 Slack of the belt tensioner and slide the belt off the wheel
11 remove the bolts from the cylinder head and lift it away
Assembly is the reverse Remember to take loads of picture as you progress. Torque settings for reassemble are available elsewhere on this sight.
I changed just the head gasket on my van and it took 2 days working with just the picture and the torque setting.

Littlevanman

It is VITAL that when the

It is VITAL that when the head is removed, (even if you replace it with another one) you get it skimmed or you'll be taking it off again within a year, believe me. Start by looking in YellowPages for automotive engineers, and/or have a word with your local garage to see if they recommend anyone for this task. Another idea while digging this deep is to check the valves in the head to make sure they are gas tight and the stem seals etc are all in order.

FWIW - Before I take 'the hat off' I often go to the breakers and find another head to get skimmed/lap the valves in/clean the ports and do whatever else needs doing. This means that when you lift the head, the replacement can be dropped right on, minimising off-road time. You can then sell the old one....

Dave with a Sporty

Dave with a Sporty

Head replacemnet

My Hijet blew it's head gasket and I had it replaced. The full skim etc a problem to watch out for is the timing - when mine was done I guess the skim increases the compression a bit so on the standard timing it pinked like crazy. Retarding it about 2-3 degrees helped