Forum:
Hi,
Can anyone help me please. In May of 2007 I had a wooshing
noise under the bonnet, which I suspect is an airlock. Several different mechanics bled the system for airlocks,
(which I believe can be a problems with some Sprotraks)
to no avail.
At the end of October 07 the head gasket blew. I love my
car and have had it over 15 years, so decided to buy a second hand engine, from Mr Engine in Barking for 300 pounds. The new engine had done 38,000 miles, my previous had done 90,000.
I also had a new clutch and thermostat. The labour, parts and engine cost me in total 1000 pounds.
When I got the car back, with its new engine, the airlock??? was still there, making the same noise. The car
seemed to be ok for about 6 weeks, but I had to keep topping the water levels up. On the 9th January,I did a 100 mile run in the car and the head gasket blew on the new engine. I had to be towed home.
I found the Daihatsu site and sent to America for the
gasket repairer that comes with a 90 day guarantee.
It arrived in 4 days and sure enough it repaired the
gasket head, without having to take the engine apart and
cost me another 300 pounds!!!
Got the car back today, the airlock??? problem is still
there, (inspite of being bled over 6 times in total now)
I took it to another garage to get a second opinion and
they told me without a doubt I had a cracked gasket head.
I haven't had any white smoke out of the exhaust yet,
but he took the radiator cap off and poured anti-freeze
into it and the pressure blew it everywhere. He told me
to part exchange the car pronto.
The gasket was mended, but the underlying problem of the
airlock remains.
If I can only sort out this airlock??? I still have half
the gasket sealer left to mend the gasket again, if indeed it has gone???
HELP me please someone, I have spent 1100.00 trying to save my beloved Daihatsu. I have come this far, how hard
can it be to sort this airlock problem out. The airlock
has cost me two engines. Please, please someone save me........
Anything here?
1. Was the thermostat replaced by a daihatsu type thermostat and the 'jiggle' fitted as high as possible? If they fitted a short length thermostat it is of incorrect type and won't open at the correct temperature and it will also allow air locks to deveop in the engine block. Daihatsu thermostats are much longer than conventional thermostats .. cost about £20.
2. Did you replace the radiator cap? A weak cap will let steam escape and the coolant level will constantly fall.
3. Sporty radiators have a weak spot.They crack where the top hose enters the radiator at the 'welded' joint. There is no sign of the crack but coolant escapes and boil away so its unseen and not noticed. The cooland however will be disappearing.
4. Has the water pump been checked?
5. If you want to know if the engine block is cracked, ask a reptable garage to do a 'compression test'. This will show if any cylinder is leaking etc.
6. Finally ..... is the fan belt loose? I also get a 'whoosh' when Sporty if frozen. I suspect ice forms on the fan belt and when the engine is fired the pully slips on ice crystals making the 'whoosh' noise. It is short lived until the belt melts the ice and the belt then runs freely. Obviously check the tension of the upper and lower belts. [water pump and alternator]
Thank you for your suggestions
The whooshing noise is not coming from the belt, it is sounds like the coolant
moving around the car when I first start her off. It is a liquid noise and seems to stop when the engine warms up.
The radiator cap might need replacing, but would a faulty one be making the
liquid whooshing noise when I start her up?
My mechanic has blead the system 6 times, but the problem is
over heating the engine and blowing the head gasket, which has just been recently repaired. How many times should he need to bleed it to stop the coolant moving around the system.
The radiator has been checked out and is fine.
Thanks for taking the trouble to sort this on going problem out.
WHOOSHING
The bleeding of the air from a drained coolant system is not always necessary as in all my experience it has self purged and as long as you top it up that should be it. The most probable place for the airlock to remain is withing the heater and this can usually be cleared by letting it out until ome water comes out of the heater return hose. Having said that the whooshing sound would indicate that the air is moving within the system so I don't think you have an air lock.
If, however, the syatem is permanantly filling with air then either there is a leak or the head gasket is forcing super heated exhaust gases into the water system causing it to replace water with exhaust gases. The water at the same time will normally escape into the cylinders and appear as steam from the exhaust. Now because of the current low temperatures you will get condensation from the exhaust on start up but if the steam is excessive then the head gasket has probably failed, again. The whosshing sound will be caused by the pressurised exhaust gases mixing with the water and causing it to fizz for want of a better expresssion. Whatever the end result is air in the water. This should be accompanied by a loss of power and usually the water gets into the oil as well causing gunge.
I would suspect that you have a head gasket blow and the only remedy is to get it replaced and for the head to be checked for warp or uneveness. It seems likely that the head is warped if the gasket has failed and may need to be skimmed flat again. A previous suggestion of a crack is very feasible as well.
It seems odd that you should have a recurring problem on two engines. As for your question on the rad cap the simple answer is no. The rad cap has a rubber seal on the bottom that allows the system to pressurise. This increases the point at which water boils. If the system gets over pressured then a spring set to the recommended presure rating is pushed up allowing excess water into the plastic header tank. If the water pipes remain soft ionce the enngine is hot then usually the seal has failed on the rad cap allowing the pressure past as steam
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Wooshing sound
You have had some problems and by the sound of it have been taken for a ride unfotunately.
The Vsscous fans make a wooshing noise when the car is first started and as the temperature increases the sound decreases. It would seem to me that although you love the car, and I have had the same one since 1994, the cost of repairs without resolving the problem is excessive for a 1990 Sporty.
If you are not using water and as you say their is no steam and no water contamination of the oil it could easily be the viscous fan playing up. Are the hoses becoming hard as the engine heats up, if so then the rad cap should be ok as it is pressurising the system. What is the temp guage doing, it should sit just to the left of the normal mark. |The Rads have weak spots on all their joints for inlet, outlet and the filler neck and this joint is often damaged by mechanics leaning over the engine and putting their weight on the cap forcing the neck joint to break. If you were losing water I would expect to see staining or even dried spray mark on the underside of the bonnet or in the engine compartment.
A mystery perhaps but I suspect a bit of macho sexism also with mechanics,so take care and perhaps use some one more reputable as suggested.
OLDMINIMAN
OLDMINIMAN
M J Young
Try this then ...........
The only other major cause of 'whooshing' must be air in the coolant. You say there is no apparent leak in any hose or 'blueor red stain' at any hose connection which would indicate coolant leakage. If you car is 15years old then the heater matrix could be leaking. The heater matrix sits consealed under the radio and is out of sight. Usually water drains slowly from any matrix leak and goes down the carpet at either the side of the central propshaft tunnel. Usually the carpet will feel wet down one or both sides of the tunnel. Some might believe the damp is from the drivers feet but check the carpet on the tunnels side face.If its wet then the matrix is the problem. Overnight coolant escapes from the heater matrix and leaves a 'void' in the heater matrix. When you switch on the engine the coolant is forced into the matrix and expells the air out from the matrix and into the engine block and finally expelled via the coolant reservoir/overflow. Since the void exists it gives a very loud 'whoosh' [It sounds like high pressure water being forced down a pipe. Much like the water through a washing machine inlet] as the air passes out the small pipes within the matrix and subseqquent hoses. If you re-start the engine straight away there is no 'whoosh' since the heater matrix is now full with coolant. Over a couple of days the coolant will be 'disappearing' and will need topping-up. The coolant from the reservoir/overflow should top-up the radiator but frequently the 'air' remains in the radiator so reducing the circulation of any coolant. Thus the rad over heats.
So check the heater matrix and report back ...................
I am going to bypass the heater matrix
Hi Mace,
Just logged on to find out the latest advise. I haven't checked the carpet yet,
but I am going to get my mechanic to bypass the heater matrix. Your verdict sounds right. I will of course report back as soon as the results confirm the
heater matrix. If it is not the heater matrix, the radiator will be next to
check. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!
Costs .....
If it proves to be the matrix then use the 'search' on the top bar [this web site]and search on 'matrix'. Renewing is a 'pig of a job'! If the matrix is leaking dont waste cash by getting it repaired. They rot! The are radiator makers which will recore or make a copy of the matrix.A good supplier is in Redditch .... the do mail order. Cost about £100 per matrix which compares favourably with daihatsu's charge of about £350 per matrix. On top of that you will need to pay for labour, unless doing the job yourself. Its straight forward but takes ages since you need to remove both front seats and unbolt and lift the whole dashboard to reach the matrix unit ... its in a box access from the drivers side. First time it took me about 5 hours but I now know the position of all the hidden bolts!
PS ... there are no valves operating the matrix. Coolant flows permanently. The heat is controlled by flaps/vents in the 'box' which holds the matrix.
PPS ... tell your mechanic the pipes to the matrix are the two copper/brass pipes passing low down through the bulkhead. Can't really miss them. Its difficult to disconnect the hoses ... bashed knuckles etc.
Whoosh
Maybe a silly question, but is the heater setting in the hot position, many times i have encountered this problem on many many vehicles. With the heater setting in the cold position the valve to the heater matrix is closed, when the cooling system is filled, the matrix is full of air, this is expelled into the engine block when it is opened for warm air such as defrosting the vehicle. Check the heater is actually connected to the valve, and that the valve is opening and closing.
To fill the cooling system. raise the front of the vehicle slightly, mix the water and anti freeze in a watering can, pour slowly into the cooling system 2 litres at a time and give it a few minutes to settle before adding some more. This virtually self bleeds the system, as the air is forced out through the radiator cap, the bottom radiator hose should also be repeatedly squeezed to help pump out any air.
To test the heater matrix, disconnect both feed pipes from the engine block, push a hosepipe down one pipe and see if water comes out of the other, close the heater valve and the water should stop.