Forum:
Following an interesting conversation with another fellow engineer today, he suggested that i pass on some of the things i had done over the years, to other members, here goes:
Contaminated components such as clutch friction plates, brake shoes, and disc pads which are still in good condition can be resurrected.
Place in a pan and cover with water, boil them for a few minutes and the contamination will boil out and float on the surface of the water. Do not tip the water out as the contamination will get onto the offending item, instead place the pan in the sink and fill until it overflows. Contamination will float out of the pan; repeat the process and hey presto; reusable components.
Cheap waterproofing of petrol engines can be done by using a pair of rubber gloves, these cost around £1 a pair. Cut the ends off the fingers and thumb and pass the leads through, pull the wrist part of the glove right over the distributor cap, and down over the solid part of the distributor body. Tie wrap in position around the distributor body, and tie wrap each finger to the HT leads. For the coil, do the same thing, only cut two fingers, one for the low tension leads, and the other for the high tension lead. Female owners can use pink Marigolds, your engine may look silly but you will not get drowned out when playing in water.
Coat all brake and fuel lines with grease, this will help stop corrosion and the dreaded MOT failure. Where accessibility is limited cut a plastic food container so it slides between the chassis and the back of the lines. Grease the front of the lines, any surplus will pass onto the plastic, slide this up and down to coat the back of the fuel lines. Work right to the end of each line and do not forget to coat any nuts thoroughly, including exposed threads, these will then come out easily if and when required.
If you use underbody protection and as many people do, use bolts to attach it, the bolt head is often exposed, remove the protection and countersink the holes, fit countersunk studs instead. No more exposed bolt heads to get snagged when off roading, and no more damage and difficulty removing them.
If you are painting components on a vehicle and have to mask off awkwardly shaped components, forget the fiddly masking tape, use aluminium foil, the sort used for cooking. This moulds easily to any shape, resists paints and solvents, and is much easier and quicker to apply than fiddly masking.
Here are five.
Well useful.
Thank you.
..... I really like the idea of pink marigolds keeping the water out of distributors !
Pink Marigolds
They really do work and they are cheap, so you can replace them often. I always had a pair fitted to my old Mk1 land Rover,as advised by a former Army driving instructor, way before WD40 came on the scene.
Also I changed the plug covers for motor bike ones, they came with a rubber insert which gripped the spark plug insulator,preventing damp/water shorting the plug out.
Edward (ews) '92 Fourtrak 2.8 TDX
Old tricks for new kids.
Nothing new! Been doing all those since buying my first car in 1966. I fitted rubber kitchen gloves on my mini cooper distributor/plug leads as the only means available to stop the damp entering the HT circuit. No WD40 in those days !!!!!
Underbody, pipe protection is easier with a yearly spray of waxoil. Mix it 50:50 with turps. Dont inhale the fumes and dont light a match!
Old Tricks
Not all or old, I deliberately did not say how long I have been driving, but as you say I too can remember the BC WD40 era, it was ignition sealer then, try getting that now.
One word of warning about Waxoyl, putting it on brake pipe nuts, in certain circumstances, may allow it it to penetrate the nut and contaminate the brake fluid.
As for brake pipes, I now replace them all with cupro-nickel pipe, this is more durable than copper, better for off road abuse, and once replaced means never touching them again unless they get damaged. Swap the brake fluid every year and forget, no more MOT failures, no more broken clips, etc.