How long to warm up?

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

Forum: 

I am trying to narrow down why my YRV Turbo is taking so long to blow warm air out the vents compared to all other cars I have owned, and even compared to my wife's Charade.

The car gets up to temp on the gauge after about 3-5 minutes of normal driving. But it takes about 15minutes to stop blowing icey air through the air vents. Even then, its not hot.

I have checked:

The heater is on the "hot zone", as it blows hot air when it has finally warmed up after a long while.
The aircon is off (that would be obvious - but I bet someone would've suggested it!)
The anti-freeze is fine (correct level and no dirt/ingress)
The physical warmth of the water pipes under the bonnet is quite warm after a few minutes.

What I am not sure of:

Could it be a faulty thermostat?
Blockage in heater pipes?

This is a bit frustrating in the mornings when its freezing cold and the windscreen can't get hot air blowing through the top vents. Takes ages to clear...

Any advice?

Mine takes between 5 to 8 minutes

Submitted by Jpor on

Depending on the weather outside my car warms up in no time. As an example like yesterday it was 6 degrees outside and according to the scangauge the water temp was rising very well and started to get warm air through around 45 degrees and above. On the temp gauge on the dash it had just risen above the cold at this point.
Are you sure you don't have an air blockage?
Failling that it could be a heater matrix problem. I take it the carpets arn't wet?

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

not wet, strong air blowing...

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

I put dry material on the footwells to check and they are bone dry over overnight and with driving.
Not sure about air blockage, becuase the airflow is very strong, its just very cold for much longer than the water takes to get warm.

How does the heater matrix control the flow of hot water? Is it variable?

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Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Air blockage

Submitted by YRV Tony on

Jpor means an air blockage in the heater water pipes!

YRV Tony

The water in the matrix flows

Submitted by waynephatg on

The water in the matrix flows through all the time (except maybe when the thermostat is closed?) regardless of the temperature dial, the only variable is the speed of it in which it flows as the engine speed increases/decreases. When you turn the dial to a cooler setting, it simply allows more cold air through to the vents from outside.

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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Should have explained that one Better

Submitted by Jpor on

Thanks for that Tony Wink

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Thermostat is the problem.

Submitted by Mace on

Drain all the coolant into a bucket - it can be reused.
Flush the engine and radiator using a garden hose. Reverse flush wherever possible.
Remove any available coolant hoses which connect to the heater matrix and flush then using the garden hose. Reverse flush if possible.
Basically flush through any hoses which can easily be removed and refitted.

Next - you have a weak coolant supply or a weak water pump. The pressure could be too weak to force the coolant through the matrix. The thermostat must be fully open to gain coolant flow into the heater matrix. A partially open/stuck thermostst will restrict the coolant flow and results in the symptoms you report. If the thermostat is only partially opening then the heater will not give sufficient heat. So whilst the engine is drained, replace the thermostat.
You must replace the thermostat with a correct type for the vehicle. Check the thermostat matches the existing and fit it with the 'jiggle' uppermost so that any air gets leeched through the thermostat. Get the jiggle downwards and the thermostat will not open correctly.
Run the vehicle and try the heater - I expect the heater will now be hot.
If all that fails then look at the water pump. I doubt it is the problem but it is the final culprit. Wink

warm weekend work!

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

Thanks for that Mace, sounds like I have my work cut out for me! Will wait for some better weather and attempt this.
Anyone purchased a thermostat from daihatsu - price?
E-bay have this listed: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Daihatsu-Thermostat-YRV-1-3-K3VET-M201-/250766179101?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a62d43b1d
£22 delivered.

Is there a recommended coolant? I may take the opportunity to just put in some good stuff if I am dismantling and flushing everything.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Thermostst - local motor shop.

Submitted by Mace on

I suggest you buy from a local motor shop. You must have a motor shop or Halfords, near you. Motor shops carry catalogues of all thermostats for individual cars based on their year of manufacture. You must get the correct type of thermostat for the year in which your car was manufactured. Daihatsu thermostats are of longer reach than standard types for most cars. Standard thermostats will fit but they will not open!
If you source local you can go back and exchange if it fail to match the old one. From Ebay you can't refund, exchange or return.

PS ... also use a new gasket plus sealent [essential] and do not over tighten the bolts ...... 5lb/sq inch and no higher. Too tight and the thread will strip - then you will be in trouble.