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Hi All just joined this site and i have my fingers crossed that someone can help me fix this problem
Sportrak 1996 1.6i
Bought car, Changed water pump and timing belt, car has big flatspot (1500rpm-3500rpm).
Timing set properly - dot on crank to indicator mark and F on cam to indicator mark.
Distributor timing done and set at 3+-2 Degrees.
Started car up runs fine, took for a drive and as soon as you put your foot down it does nothing..
Rechecked distributor timing all fine 3 degrees, it felt like the distributor was not advancing so i had a look (distributor does not have a vaccum advance unit on it) .. took the car out again this time with tools and turned the distributor to advance the timing, car ran much better timing now 9 degrees
Does anyone have any ideas why this is or what is causing this to happen as im not happy leaving the timing so far advanced
P.s i have also check the Harmonic Balance within the crankshaft pulley (which is fine)and counted the teeth between the two indicator points and there is 35 teeth between as per manual, so timing to me seems to be spot on.
What replaced the vacuum advance unit that was on the side of the distributor?
Cheers for any help given
Sporty_Scot
Weights.
You certain there are no distributor advance/retard weights below the base plate which supports the contact breaker? These weights are sprung to move outwards to match the speed of the car and the contact breaker advances to correspond. If the weights are sticking the car has poor acceleration etc.
Cambelt
Hi have just done the same job to mine and it was running fine on start up, but had no power when you pulled away.
I thought it was the timing and called a local garage to get it timed up as I have no strobe. They said it sounds like it's a tooth out on the belt, as if it was running fine before there should be no change to the timing.
I re did the timing belt and followed the manual a little more carefully and it runs fine now.
My mistake seemed to be not rotating the crank 1.9 turns round to three teeth before top dead centre. then loosening off the tensioner and returning the crank to top dead centre.
Not sure if this helps now you have changed the timing...
Dave
Hi Dave I fitted the belt
Hi Dave
I fitted the belt according to the daihatsu workshop manual i have, however no where in the manual does it mention
"rotating the crank 1.9 turns round to three teeth before top dead centre. then loosening off the tensioner and returning the crank to top dead centre"
What manual are you using as i would be interested in reading this Procedure?
Does this procedure not just make sure that the belt tension is correct or am i missing something?
Thanks for info
Sporty_Scot
Manual
I have the complete workshop manual as a PDF file.
The bit in mine is in section EM-Engine Mechanical page 44
I can email you the screen shot of the page if you send me your email address
Dave
Manual
Thanks Dave
PM'ed you
Sporty_Scot
did the car run ok before you
did the car run ok before you changed the belt ect, if it did you have the timing wrong... as a general rule of thumb once you have fitted the belt turn the CRANK two turns and then re check all marks, hope that helps, kirk.
Hi Kirk When i bought the car
Hi Kirk
When i bought the car it ran fine, once i changed the timing belt and water pump it ran fine however when i checked the ignition timing it was set to about 10 degrees (this was obviously set to this before i bought the vehicle)so i adjusted the timing back to 3 degrees (Daihatsu say 3 +- 2 degrees)
So if i stick timing back at 10 or 9 car will drive fine but something must be wrong with vehicle for it not to run at daihatsu 3 degrees and thats what im trying to fix.
Cam Timing is spot on...
Hope this helps clears things up
Sporty_Scot
well first things first, if
well first things first, if the car runs 100% when its set as before then you could just leave it that way, the second thing that you need to remember is that you have 2 types of timing,
1, the valve timing, and 2, the ignition timing, this in turn splits again as [MOST] distributors have two systems built into them to achieve proper overall timing. the distributor may have a vacume advance unit fitted to its side, this will have a vacume pipe leading to the inlet manifold and as the amount of vacume changes due to throttle position/load etc it will pull the distributor inside to change the timing, the second part is under the base plate of the distributor where there are weights which are adjusted by centrefugal force--the faster it spins the more the distributor "advances".
the point of all of this is so the spark can be set of earlier/later depending on load/revs etc,
vacume advance and mechanical[weights] can both be checked with a strobe light and if its got points a dwell meter, not trying to baffle you with science its just if you can understand the "whats" it sometimes helps with the solving of the problem.
the engine may appear to be set "wrong" but run fine because some of the above are not doing what they should do so things have been set in a defult position for the best possible results
hope to have been some help, regards, kirk.
Hi Kirk Thanks for your
Hi Kirk
Thanks for your post
I am aware that there are two types of timing, there are no points on my vehicle as it is fitted with electronic ignition therefore has no centrifugal weights nor vacuum advance unit
.
For your info the HD-E engine uses a vacuum controller negative pressure circuit.
Please note: car is not running 100% far from it, it runs ok but as said timing is too far advanced.
You cannot leave timing advanced as the fuel will be exhausted prior to the end of the stroke this results in lack of horsepower, rough running and a quick cylinder head temperature buildup. Also wrong timed detonation within the cylinder, causing damage to the valves, head gasket and connecting rods.
Hope this helps
Sporty_scot
Thanks for post Mace however
Thanks for post Mace however there are no points on this vehicle (Electronic ignition).
I took distributor off as i thought there might be some kind of weights or vacuum unit but nowt!
Sporty_Scot
CD workshop manual.
Sporty-Scot ..........
Have you a Sportrak workshop manual on CD?
The one I have is for Sporty upto year 2002.
This is not the small booklet which comes with the car but the full workshop manual consisting of over 140 pages - exploded diagrams, settings etc. Much like the Haynes Manuals but this is/was for garage mechanics.
Message me if you want to negotiate a copy.
Workshop manual
Mace
I do have a workshop manual for the sportrak not sure about what years it covers but it seems to cover the year I have.
Cheers
Sporty_Scot