Forum:
Ok, looking for some advice from you amazing people.
As you know (or may not), my autobox is not working great. It got water in the atf fluid.
It makes a noise changing from 2nd to 3rd
The D keeps flashing and steershift will then not work (however car works fine)
I have been told I need a whole gearbox rebuild to get it working properly, which is just mega expensive!
So I was thinking for a quick fix (as the autobox does not seem to bad)
Get it completely flushed
Put in new ATF with an additive
Has anyone tried this? Does it help? What additive did you use or would recomend?
Any help or suggestions would be great!
Thanks
How has water got into the
How has water got into the ATF fluid? Is there some sort of coolant flow cooling gearbox on these?
If so, then you could try adding Holts Radweld Plus, or K-Seal to the radiator. Both work very well and do not block anything like the older products can. K-Seal has built good reputation over last few years, but now Radweld have bought out the "Plus" (gold coloured bottle) which is actually supposed to be better.
As for gearbox oil, You will probably need to change the oil 2 or even 3 times to be sure you get all the old stuff out. This is still a cheaper way (and just as good) as getting a auto box flushed by a gearbox specialist.
As a sidenote, My sister has a automatic Mini cooper, It started doing all sorts of random gear change things a month ago, Not every time you drove it, was hard to tell if it was a mechanical or electrical fault.
I changed the gearbox oil twice, unpluged what I belived to be gearbox related connectors, disconneted battery.
Car played up for a few days more, but now seems to be OK again now!
For the moment anyway. All i can think was some dirt was stuck in a valve/solenoid or whatever. Not had a call yet from my sister!
Thanks!
Hi,
Thanks for the advice guys. Gonna speak to a garage tomorrow and take your suggestions to them.
I am really hoping that a good few flushes and a good additive might do the job.
Any advice on gearbox oils or additives I should buy?
Thanks again
Ryan
Do a search on here for YRV
Do a search on here for YRV Gearbox.........there's plenty to read for sure...........
The ATF goes through a cooler mounted inside the main radiator which if leaks will allow the mix of the fluids.
The flashing D4 thing is a nightmare for a few owners. Every other day mine does this. Start it up, put it into gear and clunk it goes and the D4 light flashes and steershift will not engage. Did it today too!! (and Sunday) Sometimes goes away on its own, but always goes after a restart. A new battery was said to be the fix as if the voltage drops below (9v?) it faults the box ECU. I have run my battery down so it barely cranks and the box was fine so I don't know! I have cleaned the 2 sensors on top of the box and all of the earth/body/battery connections etc but it still does it. I thought it was a damp issue but even during the COLD winter it was fine and it just depends what mood it is in on the day.
I have changed the oil (drained off a couple of litres then refilled and drained etc until I had used it all up. It was not really dirty as car only done 29k. As for the filter, I was not aware of this at the time so it never got done. No one else on here AFAIK has changed it; I think wifesyellowyrv attempted it but realised the subframe was stopping the pan from being dropped......
I dont think Radweld will do anything, i'm not a fan of these products, especuially in these very hot highly stressed engines - fix the problem not the symptom!! It would be the Transmission Cooler that is at fault so I couldn't see it working anyway.
There was a couple of owners that had the 3rd gear drum iirc shear off on the factory weld too causing the car to remain in 2nd gear.
At the last meet Dave plugged his reader into mine and we found a speed sensor fault in the main ECU. We cleared it but the gearbox still faults. I have not read the codes since either so I am not sure if the faults are related.
Let us know what you find!
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
As for a flush, I believe a
As for a flush, I believe a few garages have a machine that can do this or at least replace 95% of the Fluid. I used Comma (Dexron III) and it runs fine (at the moment
) I believe Castrol Transmax Z (i think it's Z) is good too (Jon?)
As for additives.........I'm a sceptic when it comes to these glossy/over hyped/full of empty promises products. It's like oil additives like Moly Slip/STP crap - pointless. Use a decent fluid in the first place - that's all you need (eh Bob?)
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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
I would go with all these
I would go with all these suggestions. As for the fault Wayne is experiencing, don't forget that there is a Auto Transmission module which is connected up to the ECU, like another ECU for the autobox, it maybe also the cause of the problem and may need resetting? I know that a former YRV F-Speed owner had a diagnosis done to find that his auto transmission module was faulty and needed replacing. For any other owners as a reminder, the autobox fluid needs changing every 6 years (it's mentioned in the owners manual), this only came about as Wayne pointed out something he was asking about and then when you read the rest there was mention of this. For some unknown reason Daihatsu Garages arn't aware of this. The last Garage I used even hinted they wouldn't do this as A).. It was expensive to change & B).. The AT Fluid is a long life and doesn't need changing
After this I changed Garages 
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Todays big rant!... I would
Todays big rant!...
I would be very wary of garages saying this. I would want to see proof with old ECU pluged in vs new ECU.
Daihatsu (Denso made) ECU's are very reliable and well made.
In the 16+ years I have had GTti's, I have never once come across a faulty ECU.
Although the amount of people who have bought new or second hand ECU's ripped off by garages who said it was the cause of the fault.
Yes good point re oil, ALL auto or manual gearbox should be changed regardless of the manufacturers saying not. They are in a business of building and selling new cars with a certain lifespan.
Some of the engine oil service intervals are way over stated in the interest of attracting fleet buyers. Vauxhall's were one of the first to specify a 20,000 miles oil change. Modern oils are good but 10,000-12,000 would be about it.
Giving that most car owners dont bother with the simply maintenaince like checking or topping oil, I can imagine many strong modern engines with long service intervals are becoming worn out much earlier than t hey wodul last with good old 3000-6000 oil drains.
After all, a decent oil is only £20-30 even halfords prices, and filling up your tank with fuel costs £50-80 in most cars, so its hardly a big expense.
When i picked up my brand new RallyII from the dealer, I drove home 25 miles, opened bonnet, and drained/changed the oil with fully synthtic 5w 40 (think it was Comma syner-G) kept oil filter on.
Did the same again at 500 miles, then 1000. At 1000 miles the filter was changed then i switched to 3000-5000 oil changes.
There is also a big old myth about synthtics not being used on a new engine as its doesnt promote bed in, Utter rubbish.
Some people build high spec engines costing £££, then go and stick in 10w40/15w40 mineral for 1000 miles! Surely that's exactly when you want the best oil in the engine, not the most basic.
It may take a little longer to bed-in rings (debatable, Synthtics cant stop 100% wear!)
But i'd rather have the better protection for cams and bearings protection.
All factory filled engines now use synthtics (many on Mobil 1), (or at very least a least as semi-syn)
Final note, many manufacturers are now being specified thinner and thinner oils. Again in the interest of maximum fuel economy (less engine drag) over engine lifespan.
Modern oils make this possible, but there will still be better protection by using a slightly heavier grade.
I heard that Ford in USA and i beleive Honda are advising 0w 20 in the handbook for some models!
I always use a 40 grade minimum (0w,5w,10w etc is only the cold flow ability of the oil, it's the second number you need to consider). Many GTti's suffered from big end failure from using 30 grades, or just low oil/old oil.
Also on a hot running fuel rich modified engine, you can get the problem of thining the oil grade down after a few thousnad miles because the rich fuel mixture can dilute the oil.
For this reason in summer or track days i use 5w 50 or even 10w 60, overkill for road use on most modern engines but useful in a high mileage modified engine.
Phew, Rant over!
If some people say a new
If some people say a new battery seems like a fix , then it may actually suggest not a voltage problem, but possibly a earthing problem onto chassis.
Very common on older Daihatsu's is the poor earthing. Good enough when the car is new, but a few years of corrosion on grounding ring terminals and you can have probs.
I would run a hefty gauge cable direct from battery negative to the gearbox casing itself. And if there are any wiring earthing points relating to gearbox nearby then its worth grounding them back directly to battery as well.
May not do anything, but certainly worth a try, Ready made decent underbonnet grounding kits are so cheap on Ebay.