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hi,
i have just looked at my brakes on my daihatsu and there is treaded holes for bolts to go into to release the drum, they are ok not rusted but where do i scource these bolts?
hi,
i have just looked at my brakes on my daihatsu and there is treaded holes for bolts to go into to release the drum, they are ok not rusted but where do i scource these bolts?
Handbrake cable must be fully slackened off.
Fully slacken off the handbrake cable - undo the adjusting nuts at the end of the cable. The handbrake cable is attached to the brake shoe's snail adjusters which holds the shoes fully against the brake drums. If you do not slacken the cable the drums will not come off since the shoes get caught inside the drum - a lip is always worn at the edge of the drum into which the brake shoe has settled.
When hand brake cable is FULLY SLACKENED, squirt WD42 into those screw holes/wheel nut holes and leave overnight. Use a rubber hammer and hit the drums whilst revolving. Otherwise use a hub three arm puller. A heat gun [not too hot] often helps crack the rust if aimed at the drum/hub contact point - take care not too ignite any WD40 - the drum expands and the rust cracks away from the hub.
Drum Slackening Bolts
The bolts are M10 x 1.25. Don't go trying any 10mm bolts (like I did - which ruined the thread and I had to redrill and tap), but get two bolts which are long enough and you KNOW is of this size. They are useful for moderately tight drums. If you have wear and there is a lip where the shoes stick, you may need a puller. Grind/file this lip away before replacing the drum.
You could also try (though I've never done it on my fourtrak, just my VW-Polo), by getting a screw driver, finding the adjuster nut through the bolt hole, and hopefully being able to push the nut with some light tapping, in the direction needed to slacken the shoes off. Its awkward as hell and slackening the handbrake cable may well be preferable.
Its worth trying the bolts initially. I was surprised (once I got the right size bolt for the other unruined wheel) how effective they are!
I've always founs a scafold
I've always founs a scafold tube and a club hammer to be quite effective, once the breaks are backed off. Using the tub as a very long 'punch' allowes you to work from other side of the car rather than under it.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
thankyou
thanks to all for the replies ill give everything a go, ive recently discovered now however that my gearbox is goosed so i need a new gearbox aswell as brakes! hey ho! if its not one thing its another! my mechanic friend says that the rest of the machine is in exceptional condition for its age and that someone had invested alot of time and money into the truck in the past. it apparently has brand new parabolic suspension all the way round as apposed to the ordinary multi-leaf. fingers crossed we should be back up and on the road shortly.
again thanks to all who have replied.
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
you must have Hastee
you must have Hastee parabolic springs from holland at a guess.
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
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holland!?
its funny you should say that though as the car has done alot of milage abraud i think.... it has taken part in somthing called gumball 3000 aswell? not sure what this is but theres definatly a big history behind the car somwhear!
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
gumball 3000? that could
gumball 3000? that could explain your gearbox then lol, lots of hard driving.
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
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oh!
ok there we have it then! nevermind!
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
What's the problem with the
What's the problem with the gearbox? Befor you go throwing it away, have you machanic frind check the nut on the end of the main shaft. Put main shaft nut into the serch feture on this site. This is a well documented, eisily fixed 'standard' falt with the 4trak gearbox.
Any veiws expresed in this thread by me are purely from my own experience, and (sometimes) falible memory. Hope my comments help, but please don't take them as gospel.
ok, i shall check it out
we took the plug out and drained the oil on the gearbox a few days ago and found neumerouse bits if metal, sir clips etc, i shall have a look at the bolt but (considering the amount of bits of metal) that came out from there i think its buggered... i may keep it though afterwards and get it re-conditioned.
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
that loose nut sympton is to
that loose nut sympton is to help a second gear issue, your box is %&@+--
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
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Drum removal bolts
Remember how great the metric system was going to be ... everything was going to be standard. Well it is.... it's just that the Europeans and the Japanese have a different standard. Once you go over M8 japanese bolts differ from European ones. The bolts you need are m10x1.25, the problem is if you go in a diy place or similar you will get a coarser pitch bolt which will ruin the thread in the drum. Get bolts from a jap bike shop or car dealer or a proper engineers supply who will have the finer pitch bolts.
thankyou,
thankyou i will take this onboard. i have a good supplier now who may have just the bolts!
cheers.
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)
bolts for the drums can be
bolts for the drums can be used from various other parts of a fourtrak like seat holding bolts etc
Full of ideas but no time to do them!!
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wow,
wow, now theres a nifty i dea i hadnt thought of! great, thanks!
(which came first, the chicken or the egg...???)