Forum:
Hi. I have had my yrv turbo for 18 months. I love it!
However, I have recently noticed a small annoying problem. Under hard acceleration it takes off as normal. After a second or two it seems to lose power for a split second and then goes again! It sort of jerks slightly! I dont think it did this before but am beginning to think its me as the wife says she hasnt noticed. Just had it to garage who had it on computer and nothing found. They are going to change plugs!
Is it me or is something wrong? Can anyone help?
Thank You,
David.
Depending on age of your
Depending on age of your plugs, It could well be.
Iridium NGK BPR6EIX are one of the best.
Also could be one of the coil packs, or some dirty fuel.
Unless you mean the torque convertor slip feeling they tend to give briefly on hard acceleration.
YRV Turbo
Thanks for your help. I just had the plugs changed. NGK plugs went in but made no difference. Local garage are going to look at it again a week on Monday. They dont know what it is! Its been happening for a few weeks so dont think it can be fuel. Its not a slip feeling. It accelerates fast for a couple of seconds, seems to loose power for a moment then takes off again and repeats the cycle! This gives it a bit of a jerky feeling!!
Its a shame as otherwise it drives great.
Ah well in this case, it may
Ah well in this case, it may well be the wastegate actuator rod sticking, or the actuator hose has come off/split, so its overboosting and triggering the safety cut
Wd40 and some piers
Overboosting is a common
Overboosting is a common fault that can occur with any turbo car, Any garage should know this.
Or maybe they do know, but pretending they dont!
Thank You for your help. I
Thank You for your help. I will pass on the information for the garage to check this first. I do trust them. Its not booked in until a week Monday.
Hopefully that will be it. I will post on here the outcome.
Cheers, Davie.
Does it only do it in the
Does it only do it in the higher gears 3rd and 4th? If so this would tend to suggest and confirm it is due to the boost going rising just a little too high.
On the note of the Iridium
On the note of the Iridium plugs. I have tried these in the past and wasn't really impressed. I am now using Plugs of a colder level which have the same code as a Subaru Impreza.
From what you describe this sounds like fuel cut. My car suffers from this in colder weather, and according to the boost gauge I have fitted the peak output goes over 0.8 bar preassure when this happens. It's worst for me as I have an aftermarket exhaust. The only fix I am aware to fix this is either an aftermarket ECU which can compensate for it, or as Pocketrocket has mention a device that can help resolve it which he sells.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Sorry but worth a mention,
Sorry but worth a mention, the above should read BKR6EIX! BPR..'s are the bigger bodied plug for older stuff!
From your description it most likely is the fuel cut...
It is probably the electronic fuel cut. Sometimes described as the "hitting a brick wall" effect... Are there any mods on the car?
If it's under hard acceleration at higher revs only, doubt its the spark plugs.
Torque converter or clutch slipping would feel more like a "smooth" loss of power, kind of like how Pocketrocket said, and not a jerk.
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Just call me G...
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo
Only modification, as fas as
Only modification, as fas as I know, is a fancy air filter the previous owner put in. Yes, only under HARD acceleration. It only started a few weeks ago!
This electronic fuel cut thing. How is it fixed? Is it expensive?
Thanks for your help. The garage I go to has no idea!
Your air filter could well be
Your air filter could well be the cause. Allowing the turbo to boost up that little bit easier and produce more boost. They run right on the limit with the standard setup so any airflow changes will likely make this happen.
Also more chance of happening now with the colder weather.
There is no fix unless you wire in a "fuel cut defender" (i sell them on ebay) to eliminate the safety cut, or put factory air filter back on which will lower boost back down.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dai
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Daihatsu-YRV-Turbo-130-GTti-K3-VET-FCD-Fuel-Boost-Cut-Eliminator-/220934820652?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3370bdd32c#ht_3327wt_1195
The air filter has been on
The air filter has been on the car for last 18 months with no problems. Exhaust has been on for last few years. So dont think it can be this.
Thanks, Davie.
Resolved!
Thank you guys for your help. The garage fixed it Today. I think they said it was this as Pocketrocket said previously, "Ah well in this case, it may well be the wastegate actuator rod sticking"
I printed off this page and gave it to them.
Its going like a dream now anyway. Hopefully it stays that way!
Cheers, Uzi.
Great!
Great!
Quick fix thanks to forum.
Just had this symptom a week a go and tought it was petrol but now I pressed to metal today and did it again. just checked the rod of the actuator and found it rusty and corrosive. Should clean or replace? If I find the part
IST JDM 2003
YRV JDM 2001
MINI Clubman VTEC
Any piccies of this rod?
Hi,
That's good news. I'm wondering if this is something turbo owners need to investigate and put on their own service schedule? Any chance of a picture of this rod so that others know where it is to service/fix?
Thanks.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
I will sure post you after
I will sure post you after this help.
Cool. Thanks
Cool. Thanks
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Pics a s promised
Warning guys, if this symptom was for so long and not noticed asap actuater can be damaged and will leak from its internal diaphram or the spring will sleep to a point.To test it I did this. Put on Manual mod 2nd `M2` and giving gas slowly to a 6800rpm,if it knocks again then actuator had to be checked with specific hand tool pump for readings. Normally will cut off at 5000rpm otherwise rev limiter will enter.
Street tested with a BMW after escaped from death slow on a camera speed. I like my Daihy :)Don`t try this at home
Thanks.Now we know Bob can
Thanks.
Now we know
Bob can you make this a sticky please?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Had a look at mine only to
Had a look at mine only to discover that it's behind the turbo heat shield
oh well when I get time I will have a look at this.
@Bob
Found the sticky option yet?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
Piccies
IST JDM 2003
YRV JDM 2001
MINI Clubman VTEC
Cleaned the waistegate
Cleaned the waistegate linkage that goes to actuator and had to press it a bit hard with gripper pliers until it moved socially. WD 40 and solvent sprays used to release a bit of corrosion from the exhaust side of turbo. Now works fine.10 minutes work better than a week thinking worse. Thanks guys