Forum:
I'm getting through at least a litre per 1000 miles of 10W/40 oil on my sportrak EFI. I have on reccomendation added Lucas oil stabilizer (not stop leak) but this seams to have made no difference at all. As the oil is now becoming a regular part of the running cost I wondered if using a different one could help? I have heard thicker can last longer but is it worse for the engine?
As to where the oil's going I think it must be getting burned, there was a small leak in the cambelt case but I was told not to worry about that.
Thanks for any help
burning engine oil.
If it's burning that much oil the ' bad for the engine' isn't really that relevant anymore because its already gone beyond economic repair. There is no way such an engine will go through a UK emisssions test, the unburnt HC's will be off the scale. Try your finger in the exhaust pipe , is there an oily residue? if there is then its definately burning the oil. Is the underneath oily along the chassis or underbody?
It's a leak.
Sorry to bring bad news.
These 1.3/1.6 HC engines seem
These 1.3/1.6 HC engines seem to be fairly common oil drinkers with high miles, I know someone who has poured in a can of "Restore" (made in USA but you can buy it on Ebay from UK importer) into the engine and it has really helped.
I know these products are not seen as a proper cure, But after 100 miles or so of use it being it did seem to work as advertised.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AME
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMETECH-RESTORE-ENGINE-TREATMENT-200ml-treats-1000cc-/350427901910?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5197216fd6#ht_3452wt_962
I have seen a conrod bearing from a engine that had been treated with restore (I think more than once), could definatly see a golden coloured "surface fill" in places.
Personally I never feel the need or desire to pour any additive into a decent running engine.
But in your case it might be worth a try
There is definitely no oil on
There is definitely no oil on the chassis or anywhere under the car, the only place I'vefound any is in the cambelt case, but that wasn't much.
I have just had a look at the exhaust and would describe what came out on my finger as a thin sooty and slightly oily layer.
Thanks for the link to the 'Restore' I'll do some research on that.
Burning oil
I'd up to the heaviest oil you can find. I've used Castrol GTX 20/50 on older cars. Dunno whats available at higher viscosities.
There's no point, IMO, in using synthetic in an older car unless you upgrade the lubrication system, certainly not in a car that's burning oil.
I've used Wynn's (viscosity improver additive, looks like Tate and Lyle Golden Syrup) once, to get a Renault 5 through a UK MOT after failing on smoke. Seemed to work, but I also:-
Changed the oil (with Castrol GTX, not then regarded as shitty).
Cleaned out the crankcase breather filter. and (perhaps of most significance)
Changed The MOT Inspector., so I can't be sure what fixed it.
You could, I suppose, keep an ultra-thick mix for MOT inspections, and "burn" something thinner the rest of the time. If you do that, you could use a "straight" oil, (possibly with supplements.)
Here in Taiwan, despite advertising pressure, straight 40W is quite widely used because there's not much need for the low-temp range of a multigrade. This gives the benefits of the better lubrication and shear stability of straight oil
Warm up (Purple Haze) - quick oil change, - MOT inquisition (pass) - change it back again (Purple Haze).
2-stroke? Its usually only about 20W so you'd get higher wear rates, but it'd burn cleaner. OTOH its probably pretty pricy/hard to find in the UK now. Sorry, just brainstorming/farting.
If you havn't, you should get a compression test to confirm that it's bore wear. It could also be valves.
I'd guess in the UK professional repair (rebore and/or valve guides) of a worst-case problem is not going to be an economic option, but if you're into DIY re-ringing MIGHT be possible. I've done that once, but it was to a Marina, which is probably simpler to work on.
Hey thanks for the ideas. I
Hey thanks for the ideas. I think I will try out something slightly thicker. I'll also look into getting the compression checked, I'd be up for some DIY work - I presume you can do what you without lifting the engine?
Re-ringing
You can (could) re-ring an 1800 Marina (Leyland B-series engine) without removal, by dropping the sump and undoing the conrod from below.
I can't honestly remember if the piston came out upwards or downwards, but I know I took the head off (with difficulty,it was stuck) so I'd guess upwards. I was only doing one cylinder, which had a broken ring, but I re-ground the valves since I had the head off anyway.
I don't know if this'd be possible with your vehicle, but I suspect it'll be an engine-out job.
In general, cars have become progressively harder to work on.
Okay, I'll have a word with
Okay, I'll have a word with my local mechanic. I'm just thankful I don't have one of those new cars where the bonnet is so small you can hardly see anything beyound the windscreen washer!