Forum:
Hi, ive a charade 1.0 (2007) – drives fantastic for such a small car! – Problem is the temperature warning light comes on after 15 or so mins of driving. The car has been in and out the garage since jan 2012. Had several ‘temperature –switches’ replaced and the problem persists. The car can be left running at stand still and never cooks itself or attempts to overheat or leak, the fan works fine, the thermostat and pump are good; - all appears fine, -Accept the light comes on indicating a temp problem/fault. PLEASE HELP as its costing a fortune!!!!!!!!
I have been considering
I have been considering buying one of these if needs be. So I am fascinated by what is causing this issue.
So there is no ECU light coming on as well on the dashboard or staying on after the car has started?
Has the coolant been changed? Has the system been burped to release any air locks? Thermostat replaced? Hopefully these things have been done by the garage.
If there is an ECU (Engine Light staying on after the car has started etc..) this would be a good place to start as it will mean that the Engine computer has detected a fault, and with a good ODB-II reader throw up the error code to investigate. Now if this is the case the Garage should have checked this for you. I take the garage in question is a Daihatsu Dealership? If so they will have the correct Daihatsu Code reader for which they should be using to look at the ECU for anything suspicous.
Another thing to try is a complete system ECU reset. To do this remove the negative battery terminal for more than 10 minutes, and then reconnect. As it could be an old code in the ECU which maybe throwing up an error.
Failling that change your garage. As it sound like they dont want to know or are incapable of finding the fault.
Editied to add:
I think the other issue here is that the Charade dash has no temp gauge, so I would also look at investing in something like a Scangauge II which plugs into your ODB-II port and can give you the water temperature reading, this way you know what temps the water is hitting when the light comes on.
Ebay link to one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ScanGauge-II-Fuel-Trip-Computer-latest-firmware-4-06-/261115119920?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3ccbac8930
Can be transferred between cars if needs be. I have these in my cars and swear by them for fault finding. ALso has a scan option to scan the ECU for any codes it has thrown up.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
If all is well and the fan is
If all is well and the fan is working fine, then why not forget about it.
MOT failure?
Wouldn't this constitue an MOT failure having the warning light?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
As far as I know coolant temp
As far as I know coolant temp or a coolant warning light is not part of the test.
Has no affect on safety.
If concerned come MOT time, you could always pull the bulb out of the cluster so the MOT tester is none the wiser!
thanks all for replying (keep
thanks all for replying (keep em coming!!!:) )
Update. - no warning lights other high temp one.
garage not noting any comp faults.
just got the car home, drove brilliantly, but light came on again.
Could the head gasket have gone? even though engine oil looks good and rad cap looks good?
Head gasket failure is known
Head gasket failure is known on the smaller engines. But have you checked the radiator water level and oil levels recently? Also if headgasket has gone then I would have thought that any of the following would have occured:
- White smoke coming from the exhaust even after warmed up
- Radiator coolant levels have dropped/dropping
- Oil showing signs of water contamination
- Cabin heating issues, i.e does not get hot enaough at water temp
If you are worried about this, and want to diagnose the fault then best getting something that can plug into the ODB-II port (I.e a scangauge II) which will show you the water temperature (Also has a host of other gauges to see as well).
To give you an idea, my YRV water temp at normal max temps whilst driving can vary between 86-88 degrees c. On standstill this can slowly rise up to around 95 degrees C before the radiator fan kicks in to cool off the water. So if I notice anything out of the ordinary with these temps its a good indication I have a problem brewing.
Apart from that and possible an issue with a sensor and or a wiring fault that occurs when it get hot, I am plumb out of ideas.
As I mention before if the garage isnt getting you the results then change the garage, to someone like a Daihatsu parts/delaer suppllier one as they will have the right kit for the job.
Good luck.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
No.You would be chuffing out
No.
You would be chuffing out excessive steam out the exhaust, losing water with a lot of pressure in the system, and misfires/lack of performance.
No need to worry.
If fan comes on when moving normally (not stuck in traffic) then start to be concerned!
Fan is triggered to come on at about 92-95 degrees on most cars
Pull the bulb out and enjoy the car!
The 2004 onwards Charades cars use a advanced Multi-Layer-Steel head gasket. Chances of failure are very small (unless it has deliberatly been run with no coolant). Designed to last the life of the engine.
Also don't freak out if you do see steam out the exhaust. This time of year with the cold and damp. Even a decent long drive and the rear section of the exhaust may not get hot enough to fully dry out, Plus the outside temp/damp. And at idle It is not uncommon to still get a bit of steam out of exhaust.
UPDATE!!!! :( ....is their a smiley with a gun to his head?
So far; fan switch replaced, temp control switch replaced, thermostat replaced, water pump replaced, (radiator flushed 3 times as part of above and still hitting 99c before engaging fan and lighting the dash warning light
- just abouts to order a new radiator as praying that may be the final suspect... have removed it and it does work but not sure if working well enough...and it has the tiniest of leaks... CAN ANYONE THROW ME A BONE AS TOO A] WHERE'S CHEAPEST FOR RADIATORS? B]ANY IDEAS OF WHAT ELSE IT COULD BE IF THE RADIATOR SWAP DOESNT CURE IT? AND C]...WELL THEIR ISNT A C 
You said in your first post
You said in your first post that the car does not overheat!?
Now you saying that it hits 99 c and the fan comes on.
A accurate description is needed to diagnose faults.
Don't waste money on a radiator , won't be that.
Have you done a sniff test of the coolant to check it has not got a blown head gasket??
SNIFF TEST
Thanks for reply, sniff test done (if thats the one with the cystals and a straw deally - Passed that.) as for overheating, doesnt cook itself, just boils up then finally kicks the fan in whilst bubbling - my bottle goes shortly after this point as dont want to cook the car so all is then switched off. The problem appears to be crappy circulation and or the engaging of the fan at the wrong temp ...any ideas?
add on
incidentally, it was the main dealer that diagnosed the fan only kicking in at 99c -they replaced several bits but to no avail (i then bought the car unbeknown to me and have continued the game (waterpump and 2nd temp control switch)
Yeah I was under the
Yeah I was under the impression you were just getting a light on and nothing was wrong?
Okay the only other likely suspect I would look at is the Heater Matrix the little radiator that sits inside the cabin which governs hot and cold air for your vents. I take it you are getting hot and cold air okay?
Saying that I'm with Nathan it could be head gasket. But we have been all through this with you
I take it you have checked the obvious such as fuses/ relays?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP