Sportrak clutch judder and other questions

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Hi

Recently brought a 96 sportrak with around 120k on the clock. Runs great but when driving off in 1st gear there is a bad juddering and the car feels like its about to stall, Doest happen in reverse or any other gear, any ideas what this could be?
I dont have any history with the car so dont know if the clutch has been changed.

The car seems to run fine apart from this issue, however is 120,000 miles high for this engine?
how reliable are they at this millage and it is worth me paying out for a new clutch and cam belt (which is due)
Is there anything else i should be aware of, that may be due replacmnet, before paying out?

Many thanks
james

OK I'm going to start by

OK I'm going to start by saying I don't know the answer to your question. But having seen you ask on the Difflock forum as well and get no replies I hope I can help by at least getting the ball rolling.

So, can you describe in a bit more detail what you mean by the car is about to stall? For example if you pull away in 2nd gear you will probably experience juddering and maybe stall. If you try this (pulling away in 2nd), is it similar to what you're experiencing in 1st at the moment?

When you say 'driving off in 1st gear', do you only get the problem when you are letting the clutch up or do you still get a juddering as you drive around in 1st gear with the clutch fully up?

Since it is working well in all other gears it is unlikely to be a clutch slipping problem. Anyway a standard test for a slipping clutch is to put the car in 5th gear and dump the clutch. If it stall instantly the clutch is biting well. If it slips at all then there's a problem. (although in my opinion the Sportrak's engine doesn't have enough idle torque to slip a wearing clutch anyway).

120k miles is getting on but nothing to worry about for a well kept 'trak. If you sort the clutch out I would definitely recommend a cambelt change, it's a small expense compared to writing off the engine. As for other things to look out for, I can't not mention rust although you may have all ready scrutinized the car. Everywhere is susceptible but in particular look in the rear wheel arches, make sure you give these a thorough check. Sills are also a problem, as is the cross member behind the fuel tank. Of course the chassis also needs to be in a solid state. My Sportrak has it's fair share of rust. Most do. However if dealt with it's not difficult to keep under control, but you do need to be aware of where it is and to get it sorted out if it's a problem. I would recommend a coat of Waxoyl, ideally applied before any grit might get on the roads.

I hope I've been of some help. Don't give up, Sportraks are great cars!

Hi, Thanks for the reply!

Hi,

Thanks for the reply!

The problem seems to get worse the more the car is driven, leave it over night and the issue is much less noticable.

The issue is very much like trying to drive off in 2nd gear, the whole car shakes on the bite point and dosnt stop untill the clutch is fully lifted, as said doesnt happen in any other gear.

I have given it a very good look over and am very impressed with its overall condition, bit of paint bubbling on the arches but underneath is very solid the inner arches are still shiny blue and the chasis is rust free. still going to give it a coat of underseal soon. Its had a new radiator, new fuel and brake pipes and new V belts plus loads of other stuff. Im very happy with it!

I also suspect the engine was replaced a few years ago with a low millage unit, it seems way too clean and runs like new, in 2002 the millage went from 107k to 20k at a daihatsu garage, (obviously it could have been clocked but with the condition and other bits it suggests its been looked after.

Anyways, does that additional info help narrow down the juddering issue any more?

(p.s booked to have cambelt done in a few weeks Smile

OK so just to clarify. The

OK so just to clarify. The unusual juddering only occurs when lifting the clutch in first gear?

If you can select first OK then I can't see it being a syncho problem.

Might seem a silly question but how much power are you giving it when you're pulling away, what sort of rpm as the clutch bites? Can you try quite a lot (3000 say) and see if it still judders.

Glad to hear it is in good condition elsewhere.

Just thought als,o have you used it much in 4L? I'd just be interested to know if the same problem occured

Could be the flywheel surface

Could be the flywheel surface or pressure cover surface maybe slightly warped (they do tend to wear over many miles more on the inside than outer edge), Or the damper springs in the clutch friction disc hub could be a bit too loose. Any of these can tend to give judder when pulling away, but once on the move you don't tend to feel it. (much like a cerametallic paddle racing clutch)

if it only judders in 1st

if it only judders in 1st gear, dont see it can be the clutch at fault, more like a gearbox issue, if all the others select into place fine without hassle then it kinda sounds like synchros or something have gone inside....there pretty straight forward vehicles, engine,clutch,gearbox,transfer box, props, diffs, shafts,wheels...drive, without the vehicle at hand its guess work, no crunching happening anywhere?

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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clutch judder

Just my two pennorth but on mine the engine mountings on both sides had become detached so that the rubber mounts were sitting , but not fixed between the engine and the chassis. The other common cause is burnt on oil on the clutch. I wasn't paying god know what for engine mounts so I made some up from rover v8 engine mounts ( a big round bobbin) which cost about a fiver each. It's now much better.

only thing is, engine mounts

only thing is, engine mounts wobbling wont make it stall and you'd still notice it in several gears.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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Hi Got Daihatsu back from

Hi

Got Daihatsu back from garage today, Clutch judder was diagnosed as rust on the plates, however the clutch itself is fine so a bit of a clean up and all is now working fine, still a bit of judder but much better now Smile

Cambelt all done and came to a grand total of £75 so im happy.

Thank you for all the helpful comments

James

glad you found the problem,

glad you found the problem, if its the clutch though and they split the box to get too it, why not fit a new clutch? I would have.

Full of ideas but no time to do them!!

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