Forum:
My Daihatsu is making a really high pitched squealing noise (only way to describe it) and it sounds and feels like the whole front end of the car is going to fall off and vibrates right up the steering wheel but this goes away when the break is tapped.
I have had a mechanic (with over 10 years in the trade and his father who has been in the trade all his working life) go over the car and he has replaced a lot of things like the calliper and the break pads and discs and most recently the front right wheel baring and the noise is still there.
He has also enlisted his colleagues at Mercedes to help diagnose but they are also dumbfounded as to what else it could be that is making the noise.
Any help in this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks guys in advance
Tricia
The way you describe the
The way you describe the problem it could be anything Im afraid
I know from experience of vibrations on my engine (YRV Turbo, Automatic,K3-VET), the issue I had was with an engine Misfiring. This was down to the Engine computer refraining from giving power due to emissions which was down to a low temperature thermostat. And the Engine Management System was expecting my engine temps to have reached a certain level so to take the engine out of choke/warm up mode.
As for the problem going away after dabbing the brakes, now thats a weird one. Could be elctrical perhaps?
When the vibrations happen where about in the rev range (Using your rev counter on the dash) does this take place? Any Engine Management Light on the dash (Engine symbol)? Does the Engine Management Light come on and go off when you come to start the car?
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP
It usually starts when on rev
It usually starts when on rev 2 I think. I don't have the car at moment to check as its with the guys at Mercedes as they are all dumbfounded by it and trying to fix if for me. No warning lights come on dash to tell me something is wrong
I should have also said it is an automatic as well.
No worries. So 2000RPM then?
No worries. So 2000RPM then?
Does it stay like this after 2000 or 2K RPM?
This is what happened to me where I would reach 2K RPM after the car was getting warmed up and the entire car would violently shake, and my guess is that it could be a misfiring of the engine as the engine hadn't come off choke.
Things to maybe investigate:
- MAP sensor is okay and all leads to and from the MAP look good and not broken down (This is something that sorts out the Air and Fuel Mixture)
- Both top (Manifold) and bottom (Exhaust) Lambda Sensors are okay (These sort out the emissions). There have been cases of peoples cars requiring replacement Lambdas, but usually the ECU light would come on and tell the ECU a code to say this was the case.
- Thermostat is okay. Unlikey cause but worth investigating
- Coil packs and spark plugs are fine, inlcuding the igniter box. (Someone on here with a YRV and 1.3 K3-VE engine (Same as yours) had to have this replaced because of misfiring.
- Fuel injectors and fuel pump are working.
Other things to look at are the serpentine belt and Alternator.
The only thing that puzzles me is why does it stop after the brake is applied? I take it once the brakes are applied the car drives normally upto and past 2000 RPM?
Or if you lift off the accelrator it is fine but reasserting the accelarator pedal at getting back to 2K RPM and this happens again?
Unfortunately without witnessing this first hand I cannot be any more help on this.
Good luck with the fault finding.
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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP