Forum:
Any trick to this? I've removed the bolt, but the sprocket wont come off with gentle tapping, and I dont want to hit it too hard.
Perhaps you have to use a gear puller? I've got (or at least had) one somewhere, though I'm not sure where.
I managed to wiggle the sprocket out of the chain and get the pump off that way, so perhaps I don't actually need to remove it.
The CB20 manual I have says remove it though.
OK, perhaps a daft question,
OK, perhaps a daft question, but since I havn't done this before I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.
Since it has to come off to dismantle the pump I ended up using the gear puller. Sprocket seemed to be glued on with oil varnish and took quite a lot of force to shift. Dont think I bent it. but it was becoming a concern before it let go.
I'd have put something behind the sprocket to spread the edge-load, but there wasn't clearance for anything I had to hand.
Pump internals seem OK, from what I can see and measure with feeler guages.
Casting void behind the pump body was, however, full of sludge, as were the pump body bolt-holes.
Thinking about it further I
Thinking about it further I seem to recall traces of what looked like RTV silicon around the sprocket bolt, and there's also something visible in pictures I took of the sprocket in situ.
http://i73.servimg.com/u/f73/18/14/95/21/img_0214.jpg
Perhaps the bolt had a thread - locker on it? Which raises the question - should I put some on when I re-assemble it?
I don't remember anything about it in the manuals I have, and Loctite etc will be hard, perhaps impossible, to find here, though I have some RTV silicone.
Bit of Googling suggests that this type of sprocket is known to come loose, at least on Porsches and Landrovers.
Description of the Landrover issue
http://www.web-rover.co.uk/nav.php?p=td5kb/oilpumpbolt
Dunno about Daihatsu's, but I suppose I'd better try and find some Loctite.
Anyone heard of these coming loose?