How do you solve P0135: 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Fault on YRV Turbo?

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

Forum: 

MIL came on... Checked with the Dashdaq diagnostic and it says:
P0135: 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Fault

Anyone had this before? Not sure which sensor this one is to check it.

Oxygen/Lambda Probe Failure

Submitted by waynephatg on

I think you'll find it's one of the two Lambda Probes/Oxygen Sensors that has failed (not uncommon on the YRV Turbo). I believe their are a number of more freely available probes from other vehicles that are compatible; someone else may confirm or try searching on here.

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2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

I'm with Wayne on that. Seems

Submitted by Jpor on

I'm with Wayne on that. Seems like another common fault coming to light with these cars. So far this is a list of known issues which can plague YRV Turbo Owners;

- Exhaust rot (on original Y Daihatsu exhaust)

- Rear Anti-Roll Brackets snapping (On original supplied parts, uprated ones resolved this)

- Water Pump leaking ( After a few years )

- O2 Sensor(s) failure (pre and/or after)

Worth Going down to your nearest parts dealer to see what they can offer. Or to the dealership to see how much they can sell you one for.
At the moment I am planning on swapping mine out this weekend with some shiny new NTK ones due to reading up about this problem Smile

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Your not having a good time lately

Submitted by DaihatsuDave on

Your not having a good time lately G.
I'm afraid its the more expensive rarer upper sensor. Had to do mine 2 years back and in all fairness they are getting old and probably not working 100% anyway.
I might have a spare but was only looking the other day for the box but couldnt find it, as i needed the lower one. Cut a long story when i had the exhaust done in stainless they chopped after the lambda and not straight up to the Cat. Four years on it rotted around the lambda socket, but they have still replaced it in stainless under warranty, along with some new shiney tails too that also rotted inside Wink

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Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Ouch Ouch Ouch.

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

Just when I thought I was catching up with the last bit of wallet bruising.
Any parts numbers or rough ideas on prices?
Jpor - where did you get the NTK ones, and how much if you don't mind me asking?

Is it difficult to remove? Sometimes after so many years, exhaust bolts can be a pain! Anything I should prepare myself for?

I've got a stainless exhaust from just after the downpipe to the split tailpipes (after that rotted through).
Also I've checked that the anti-roll bar and brackets are all intact.
Gearbox seems to be shifting as sweet as ever, no flashing D lights even in the freeze.

Guess I just got the bad luck on the sensor Sad

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Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Hi G. The NTK (NGK) sensors I

Submitted by Jpor on

Hi G.

The NTK (NGK) sensors I sourced from a contact in Japan. The NTK part numbers end in EE5 and EE23.

I did also buy and have in my possession a Daihatsu O2 sensor, with part number 89465-97410-201211. Unfortunately I don't have access to the part numbers to cross-reference if this is for the top or bottom. Bob? Dave? Any ideas?

The NTK sensors were quite expensive @ 15,000 and 12,000 Yen.

The Daihatsu one was roughly 10,000 Yen.

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

89465-97410 is the upper/top

Submitted by DaihatsuDave on

89465-97410 is the upper/top sensor and 89465-97405 the lower/bottom sensor.
You cant get those NTK/NGK lambdas Jon has sourced in the UK....i contacted NGK UK a while back and they didnt even think they were their part numbers at first and eventualy guessed they must be overseas spec only Scratch one-s head

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Current- 04 Silver YRV TURBO
Past- 91 Charade GTti, 89 Charade GTti, 98 1.3 Hi-Jet.
A friend in need is a friend indeed, a friend always in need, an Effin nuisance Wink

Time to get a new set!

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

So it's finally time to replace the sensors with new ones... I am a bit confused about these numbers though...
I've looked at a few sites, and there is conflicting info.
Like this: http://www.buycarspares.co.uk/car-parts/sensors/lambda-sensor
where the denso ones are very cheap compared to blueprint, but will the work?
Because here: http://www.worldcarparts.co.uk/Store/tabid/667/ProductID/7193/Default.aspx
they list both part numbers in the compatible list... same here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DAIHATSU-YRV-1-3-CUORE-1-0-TREVIS-1-0-2001-LAMBDA-OXYGEN-O2-SENSOR-89465-97405-/170729770711?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27c0498ed7

Has anyone purchased / replaced a set recently who can advise on a good deal?
Thanks!

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Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Solved!

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

So in case anyone comes across this thread because of a similar problem...
Mine has been solved by swopping out the upper O2 sensor (just next to the turbo through the gap in the heatshield).

Many thanks to Jpor for selling his old one to me, and also to Daihatsu Dave for pointing out the solution.

At least I know that if I can get a new one for a good deal, I won't be spending the money in vain. The engine light has not reappeared after I cleared it, and the car actually is driving better than before.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Glad you have this problem

Submitted by Jpor on

Glad you have this problem sorted out. Looks like another YRV Turbo issue with age it seems. That's why I bought 2 new O2 sensors (Top and Bottom), as they seem to be a perishable item Sad

If anyone else is interested in a sensor give me a shout as I have another (New, Daihatsu) top O2 which I can sell. Smile

Thanks,

Jon.

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Time to do this!

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

So I've decided to go with the Denso set!
The lambda sensors are referenced here:
http://www.denso-am.co.uk/catalogue/findProducts.asp?make=DAIHATSU&model=YRV&litre=&body=&catid=27&srchTxt=&srchType=&isFirst=

1.3_ (Diagnostic Probe) 95 07/2002-06/2007 Automatic 4 DOX-0236
1.3_ (Regulating Probe) 95 07/2002-06/2007 Automatic 4 DOX-0113

So it's the DOX-0236 and DOX-0113.

I searched and found decent prices:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390719164620?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
£60.69 and £44.50 (from the same seller)

I also would like to change the thermostat. Does anyone have a recommendation? I read that there are a few issues causing misfiring etc, so I really don't want to buy the wrong thing...

Thanks!

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Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Stay with the standard Thermostat

Submitted by Jpor on

Hi G!

Hope the new Lambdas solve your problem?

As for the thermostat, I tried changing mine to a lower temperature one (DSPORT), which would kick in at around 60-70 degrees instead of the 80 Degrees on the standard item. This was a weird one as at the time I had a few things done on my car at the same time, so didn't think anything about it. But in the end diagnosed the Thermostat at causing my misfiring issues when the car started to warm up. Reading up about the issue on the internet, basically any electronic controlled engine will expect a certain engine temperature so it can put in enough fuel and air mixture to compensate. To fix the issue I put back my original thermostat and the problem went away. So the moral of the story is stay with the standard item and you should be fine. It was an awful experience I had, as once the car warmed up within 10-15 minutes the car would struggle and then start the misfiring.

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'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Is there such a thing as an OEM Thermostat?

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

Thanks jpor, I read through that thread, quite a lot of info there. I think I agree, will go with a standard thermostat - did a quick search and there so many out there, all claiming to be OEM quality. Are any better (or at least ones that anyone here has good experience with) or anyone know a good deal?

Also, is the thermostat replacement a job I can do at home? Do I need to drain the anti-freeze first? Sorry I haven't had a chance to look up where the thermostat is located on the K3-VET.

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Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

2 person job for the thermostat on mine at the time.

Submitted by Jpor on

Hi G!

I was lucky, that Daihatsu Dave gave me a hand with mine at his house. Basically there are 2 ways of doing it. For a 1 person job then drain the coolant first. In my experience Dave took off the thermostat housing whilst I held a bucket under the housing as I have that Evans Waterless coolant (the stuff that lasts the life of the engine and isn't cheap). You will then get some of the coolant coming out of the thermostat and the piping. It was just simply then popping out the uprated thermostat and putting the original one back in. Then refilling the coolant with what had come out.
What makes you think you need a new thermostat?

Jon.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
'12' Plate Mazda MX-5 2.0 litre NC 3.5 Venture Roadster 160BHP
'15' Plate SEAT LEON 184 FR TDI. 240BHP/500nm Torque.
Past: '53' Plate Yellow YRV Turbo Approx. 150BHP

Water flowing at cold start

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

Ah ok, I'll probably ask a buddy to work with me.
Since the start of the colder weather, it is quite noticeable that the water is flowing through the heater matrix and while the car is cold (from start-up), the idling is really erratic and rough. Once the car warms up, it goes smooth and drives perfectly.
But I also have this problem (the title of the thread) to do with the lambda sensor, so when I have the car on the ramp, I'll just do both jobs.
I reckon I shall just order a normal "OEM" thermostat from the local motor factor, hope it's not sub-standard! In some past experience, some OEM quality is inferior to others...

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Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

Well I'm not the only one

Submitted by flumperboy on

I had p0135 a week ago 51000 on the clock , looks like I'm gonna be buying some lambdas , I'm guessing denso are the ones to replace the old ones with , My code only comes on few seconds after I start reset and drives on , emissions were -0.010 co 2 , light came on just after had my m.o.t. Thanks for this thread guys , saved me all the questions,

If you are replacing both lambdas...

Submitted by Yellow YRV Turbo on

If you can get both with the proper connector it does save a bit of time. Mine came with the DOX-0113 not having the connector so I had to swap the old one and splice the wires.

And yes, it seems about the right mileage for a replacement anyway. It's incredible the difference in mpg since I replaced them. I drove motorway today and got 240miles from full tank to just below half tank still left! Guess I could get over 400miles on motorway from the full tank now, never got close to even 350miles before...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Just call me G... Wink
2004 Yellow YRV Turbo

I've been emailing today

Submitted by flumperboy on

Ive been emailing the sparkplugs company today I sent pics of my stock sensors
They said they only have one listed the other is a universal sensor , rear sensor is direct replacement
Front sensor is universal, so no plug,
Don't know if we could get one from else where ,

Front

Back

Rear plug

Front plug