Forum:
Have been curing noises one by one....now the latest one appears to be coming from the lump of metal in the middle of the rear axle !
Was happening when cornering mainly, but got son to bounce up and down in the back to trace the noise .
what could it be 
how do i cure it
any help greatly appreciated as usual !
Two possible causes.1. wo
Two possible causes.
1. worn U joints in the rear propshaft..get under vehicle and give the rear prop a good yank about...up/down side to side..there should be little or no movement. UJ'S are cheap to replace...there are two along the length of the prop.
2.If all's well with the prop then you may have some wear in the crown and pinion gear inside the rear diff (the lump of metal between rear axles.)Wear can be taken up by adding shims. A little bit more involved..but if you have a manual it takes you through doing the job step by step.
Check there is diff oil in the differential by undoing the large nut on the back of it...the oil should be up to the fill hole.
god iam gonna sound thick now.....wots a shim ?
only a demon buys a lemon!
cheers for that mike !
have given prop a twist....bit of free play and clanking.
have given a bit of push and pull....bit of movement at the front end.
that nut doesnt look like its been unddone in an age !
so doc, what d'ya reckon
only a demon buys a lemon!
heat
a shim is a thin peice if metal packer that you put in to reduce the gap . Have you tryed to unloosen it if its suck try putting some heat on it that will prob break the seal but watch what your doing with a naked flame wires fuel filler pipe etc
jamie
jamie
thanks poppiepiesdad !
only a demon buys a lemon!
cheers for that, am starting to get a little embarrassed with my lack of spannerspeak and auto knowledge !....now gimme a horse....!
so are shims generic
or is there specific ones for specific jobs 
thanks again !
only a demon buys a lemon!
With 160,000 on the clock it
With 160,000 on the clock it would be resonable to expect the UJ'S to be worn...if original they have been moving about for a long time..specially if not regularly greased. I am pretty sure that your mate's workshop will have some sort of press to get a new set of UJ's into your prop. The link to Milners is at the top of the page under
'parts dealers'.
If it were me I would replace the UJ's first and see how things are after they are fitted (not too expensive.
Dont worry about shims and the like untill you see if your clunking is cured by repacing the UJ's.
As for your experiences with rot...its pretty much par for the course with older traks..they do suffer from the tin worm somewhat.
My old beastie was the same..I repaired the rotten arches with ally mesh and filler...not ideal but it looked fine once painted with some black hammerite.
Fourtraks are very easy to work on in my experience..everything is nice and big and lots of room to get at most things.
A manual is a must if you intend working on it yourself..they can be got off ebay for pennies (cd version)
The engines are pretty much bomb proof if you service them regularly e.g. change oil every 3000 miles etc.
There is a well documented problem with a shaft nut on the gear box..you will know if you have the problem when you have major difficulties engaging gears...but hey dont dwell on that one if yours is working ok.
This forum is about helping each other so dont feel embaressed in any way m8
Have a read at this post I put up when this forum first started
http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/9
With 160,000 on the clock it
With 160,000 on the clock it would be resonable to expect the UJ'S to be worn...if original they have been moving about for a long time..specially if not regularly greased. I am pretty sure that your mate's workshop will have some sort of press to get a new set of UJ's into your prop. The link to Milners is at the top of the page under
'parts dealers'.
If it were me I would replace the UJ's first and see how things are after they are fitted (not too expensive.
Dont worry about shims and the like untill you see if your clunking is cured by repacing the UJ's.
As for your experiences with rot...its pretty much par for the course with older traks..they do suffer from the tin worm somewhat.
My old beastie was the same..I repaired the rotten arches with ally mesh and filler...not ideal but it looked fine once painted with some black hammerite.
Fourtraks are very easy to work on in my experience..everything is nice and big and lots of room to get at most things.
A manual is a must if you intend working on it yourself..they can be got off ebay for pennies (cd version)
The engines are pretty much bomb proof if you service them regularly e.g. change oil every 3000 miles etc.
There is a well documented problem with a shaft nut on the gear box..you will know if you have the problem when you have major difficulties engaging gears...but hey dont dwell on that one if yours is working ok.
This forum is about helping each other so dont feel embaressed in any way m8
Have a read at this thread I started when this forum first saw the light of day.
http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/9
thanks again !! i wish i had joined this forum before i boughtit
only a demon buys a lemon!
cheers mike....i will be ordering the uj's from milners....i have allready had a front springkit , and a rear spring hanger plate from them ( cheap....but the postage stings a bit !)
As for that link.....that very same problem on the gears is the same on mine !!! to the letter!
Also have no 4x4 light....i suspect my 4x4 isnt working....will soon know when my mate gets it up on his free wheel ramp at his work .
loooking underneath , there seems to be thin plastic hose hanging every where, ( like the sort you get from a pump on a fish tank )and a few electrical conectors not connected to anything ( i think these may have once been on the shocks.....but then who needs adjustable shocks anyway ???
have had the rear wheel arch welded....blimey, that was a lengthy an d expensive job....there wasnt much holding the arch to the motor when we got into it !
This forum and yourself / bundy have been especially helpful, as has everyone else that has replied to my threads.
thanks !
only a demon buys a lemon!
Hi m8There really should
Hi m8
There really should not be any (or very little ) movement with the prop. At each end of it there is UJ ...they have little grease nipples which should be greased every 6 months or so..but..they often get forgotten about and over time they dry out causing the UJ to wear.
Its a very simple job to remove the prop..just undo the 4 bolts on the flanges at each end of the prop...Milners sell replacement UJ's for about £15 each if I remember correctly...The easiest way to get the new ones in is to have them pressed in at your local engineering shop (hydraulic press needed)..You can do it with hammer and socket..I tried but failed with that method.
How old is your trak and what milage has it done
It does sound to me that you may have knackered UJ's..Its more likely to be wear with them than the crown and pinion gear...which are hefty bits of geared metal.
Because the nut on the diff may not have been off in ages does not mean there is a problem...but I would get it off and check your diff oil just the same...as I say it should come up to the fill hole level..i.e. as you fill it up just let in over flow a little and then get your nut back on.
cheers chaps!
only a demon buys a lemon!
its a G reg (may 1990 ) with about 160k i rekon !
I think it has lived by the seaside too, as when i was cleaning out gaping holes in the nearside rear arch it was full of sand !
Have greased me nipples (fnar fnar!) no difference.....so will try the u j thingyamyjigs . Got a mate that has access to a coach workshop, so hopefully he will no what a hydraulic press is !
Am starting to wonder how much i have left to do ! everything was botched and the more i investigate...the more i uncover ! ooer! hope i end up with a good truck soon ! :-o
only a demon buys a lemon!
Clunking
It might be a bit late and totally off trak (!!) but have you checked the spring to axle U bolts. Mine had a similar noise and the u bolts needed nipping up a turn or two. Worth a shot especially as you say it does it when cornering.
Keep the Faith, Cheers Cookie
Rear axle clunking....
I have been reading the posts with interest, more so as my Fourtrack has recently started to make a rather alarming amount of noise, that appeared to emanate from the rear axle, accordingly I crawled underneath with the intention of checking freeplay in the UJ's & discovered to my horror that the rear chassis section that curves over the rear diff had rusted through from both chassis legs, leaving the diff to flex about.....
Heyho off to the garage...
Just a footnote to anyone checking their UJ's, if you have had the vehicle in 4WD you will need to revert to 2WD and jack up one of the rear wheels, enabling the drive shaft to 'unwind' after which you will be able to ascertain the freeplay in the UJ's.
Note; Please please do not crawl underneath relying only on the jack, find a supplementary means of supporting the chassis, as you must have one freely spinning wheel (by hand) hope this helps.
N Mills
N Mills